JohnH's WL-1 (Slightly pre-emptive)

[JohnH]

Thanks Simon, that's good advice. Even though it seems obvious now you've mentioned it, I wouldn't have thought of either of those things!

JSergeant, I got it from this eBay store: http://stores.ebay.com.au/Curly-Timb...p2047675.l2563

He has some nice stuff on there.

[FrankenWashie]

Oh dear god, why, why WHY did I click that link!?!?

[andrewdosborne]

Oh no! I've also just clicked the link.... I foresee future cash outflow & timber acquisitions....

[Simon Barden]

I clicked but the extra shipping costs make me safe from its influence.

[JohnH]

Ha ha, Simon, I had the complete opposite - one of those rare occasions where I loved the wood AND the shipping wasn't prohibitive. Unfortunately I too can see much of my money winging his way.

[jsergeant]

Thanks Simon, that's good advice. Even though it seems obvious now you've mentioned it, I wouldn't have thought of either of those things!

JSergeant, I got it from this eBay store: http://stores.ebay.com.au/Curly-Timb...p2047675.l2563

He has some nice stuff on there.

Ooooh pretty timber... Thanks

[JohnH]

Alright, so funds ran out when I first had this idea, but I've been saving up and am nearly ready to order the kit.

Have decided on the following modifications:

- No bridge route
- No bevel on the top edges (so I can add a veneer)
- A 30" bass neck (to fit the neck route, and with a paddle headstock and no tuner holes)

Now I'm looking for suggestions about the electronics. Firstly the pickups - it's clearly going to be a baritone, so I want pickups that will be happy with the low tuning, but really have no idea what I'm looking for. Should I be thinking bass pickups? or active pickups? Or something like these? http://www.lacemusic.com/dropngain.php

Also, since I've been building effects pedals I've been thinking about maybe including some onboard effects. I mostly want to play a lot of drone/doom, so some kind of heavy fuzz perhaps. I did a bit of googling and came across a whole plethora of preamps and other electrical jiggery, but don't really know what to think. Maybe something like this? http://www.guitarfetish.com/Onboard-...one_p_570.html

Anyway, because I'm such a noob I'd love to hear your suggestions for things to think about or include (no matter how wild). Also I'm a sucker for anything that includes a switch, so anything that'll get a switch or two (or three) on the guitar is gunna get two thumbs up (can you tell I'm an artist rather than a musician?)

[Simon Barden]

No special or bass pickups required. Plenty of baritones have used their standard-scale stablemate's normal pickups. Lipstick pickups on Danelectro baritones, Jaguar-style pups on a Fender Bass VI. A Fender Tele baritone a mate had, had standard humbuckers and single coils on it.

The main watch-it on the pickups is that because you are using a longer neck, if the bridge stays in the same location, the standard pickup routs will be relatively nearer the bridge than with a standard neck, so will have a bit less bass in them plus a bit more treble (partially counteracted by the lower tuning).

However, the design of the 30" scale neck is the key to the bridge position. To keep the bridge in the same place, the neck would need maybe 25 or even 26 frets (or some blank space for them). If it comes with 24 frets (standard on a slightly shorter scale Warmoth baritone conversion neck), then the bridge would probably need to be moved backwards slightly to compensate. And if you get a 20-fret bass neck (as per the 30" scale PB-30 kit neck) then the bridge will need to move backwards quite a bit further still. With the large central cutaway curve at the rear of the WL1, you may find you don't have enough space to actually fit even a simple hardtail bridge in the right place.

It all depends on the actual length of the neck from the nut to the heel. E.g. if it's 22", then the bridge will need to be 8" away from the neck heel. If its 20", then the bridge will need to be 10" from the neck heel.

If the bridge has to be moved back significantly, then the bridge pickup will be relatively further forward than before, so won't have quite the same level of treble in it.

So I'd say you really need to get a lot of dimension details first. On the WL-1 body you need to know the distance from the end of the heel cutaway to the standard bridge position. You'd then need to find the active length of the 30" bass neck you were thinking about and see if the two dimensions add up to 30" (or very close to).

If the answer is less than 30", then either the bridge has to move back, or the neck will have to be custom made to make that length 30".

If the answer is more than 30", then either the bridge has to move forwards (which is limited by the bridge pickup rout position and you don't want the bridge pickup right against the bridge or it will sound very 'plinky'), or again, the neck will have to be custom made to make that length 30" (or very close to).

[JohnH]

Thanks Simon, this is really helpful. I had figured I'd need to move the bridge back, but I guess I hadn't fully considered how much farther back it may need to be. I'll email Adam, and do some calculations. I had also wondered if the nut width would be a problem, adding the extra two (admittedly thinner) strings.

I'm not averse to the idea of making my own 26 fret neck if it comes to it (or even keeping this kit as a standard scale and maybe later ordering a custom SGB-30 kit to be converted to a baritone)

[Simon Barden]

It may work, it may not. Just can't tell without the measurements. The WL-1 kit has a 24 fret neck as standard, so the end of the neck pocket is already that bit nearer the bridge than with a 21- or 22-fret neck.