The Gavmeister had a rule of thumb where you capo at the 2nd fret or 3rd fret and it should just clear the first fret or something like that. Can any one else remember the details, because I can't right now.
The Gavmeister had a rule of thumb where you capo at the 2nd fret or 3rd fret and it should just clear the first fret or something like that. Can any one else remember the details, because I can't right now.
Current:
GTH-1
Completed:
AST-1FB
First Act ME276 (resurrected curb-side find)
ES-5V
Scratchie lapsteel
Custom ST-1 12 String
JBA-4
TL-1TB
Scratch Lapsteel
Meinl DIY Cajon
Cigar Box lap steel
Wishing:
Baritone
Open D/Standard Double 6 twin neck
Yes Fretworn has got it. At least the way I do it.. put a capo on the 2nd fret, since it's a bass if you don't have a capo just use your finger and pres hard across all strings, and you should be able to slide a piece of paper or two between the first fret and the strings. Of course there are other things to consider with these kits like neck angle and saddle height, but assuming that all of that is ok, that will give you nice low action.
Personally I'd cut the slots down rather than file the base of the nut, but both methods work. On a bass you can use round needle files to deepen the slots rather than the nut files you really need to use to cut a guitar nut. If the nut slots are considerably deeper than now, then you can also file down the top of the nut, then sand it smooth and polish it (masking off the nearby fretboard and headstock for protection. Just be careful to try and achieve a good semi-circular bottom to the slot and not to widen it more than the width of the string.
Only do a small bit at a time and keep checking the height above the fret. Don't go too far! You need to do this with the bottom filing method as well, which makes filing the slot a lot quicker as you don't have to keep slackening and re-tightening all the strings when removing and replacing the nut.
You'll then want to run some medium and fine grit paper through the slot and you can even use something like brasso for a final slot polish.
But only adjust the nut once you've 1) adjusted the neck relief for a very small amount of concave bow and 2) adjusted the saddle heights for a playable action on the fretted strings. Only then will you be able to accurately judge the string height above the 1st fret.
Depress the string at the last fret, measure between the bottom of the string and the top of the pickup, you are after about 2-3mm
Here is what Fender say about bass setup:
https://support.fender.com/hc/en-us/...itar-properly-
Stan's LP Build for my Sister: http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=3146
Benson Pickup Strat mod: http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=5229
Epiphone LP headstock fix: http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=3410
Martin Backpacker Repair: http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...?t=5038&page=3
'57 Harmony Jazz guitar project: http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=2972
nice looking JB Colin well done. Bone nut is a good upgrade well worth it. How does it sound and play ?
Current Builds and status
scratch end grain pine tele - first clear coat on !
JBA-4 - assembled - final tweaks
Telemonster double scale tele - finish tobacco burst on body and sand neck
Completed builds
scratch oak.rose gum Jazzmaster - assembled needs setup
MK-2 Mosrite - assembled - play in
Ash tele with Baritone neck - neck pup wiring tweaks and play in
Looks really good. Not sure about my choice of a maple fret board for my JB. The contrast of body colour, fret board and head stock looks really great.