LuthNoob's first build

[luthnoob]

Hi all,

I usually like to do my stuff ups in the solitude of my workshop, but since I have no idea what I'm doing with this guitar build, I've decided to expose my mistakes and share the build as I go along. Hopefully getting great input from the good folk in this community. So thanks in advance. Here we go!

I'm building this bass for my 9 year old so I went for a 30" sclae PB-30R with rosewood fretboard.

Now to *shock* read the instructions.

[Trevor Davies]

Hi and Welcome.

Is this your first guitar build? Are you a guitarist also?

[FrankenWashie]

Welcome LuthNoob! If you have any questions just post them to your diary and you’ll get all the advice you could ask for.
Look forward to seeing your build start!

[luthnoob]

Hi Trevor,

Thanks for saying "hi".

No, I'm not a guitarist. Actually I play the violin but my kids are far cooler than me and want to play guitar

I've done a search on this forum for "PB-30R" which is the kit I bought. It found zero hits. I also looked at all of the "how to solder" videos, but couldn't see any reference to the PR-30R again. Does anyone know an existing Build Diary they could point me to?

Also, I bought the bone nut to replace the plastic one that comes as standard. The plastic one is already fitted in the top of the fretboard. Is it just a matter of pulling the plastic one out and then friction-fitting the bone one? Or is there glue involved?

Thanks in advance for any help!

Luthnoob

[FrankenWashie]

I’d imagine the wiring diagrams for the PB 4 would be the same as for your PB30. Weird bits or one of the electrickery gurus may be able to offer some more advice on that.

to all intents and purposes the PB4 and the PB30 are the same kit just one is shorter so some of the PB4 diaries might serve you for info.
In regard to the nut, take a scalpel or a razor blade and score down the sides of it where it joins the fretboard. You might be able to just pull it out but typically they’re pretty well stuck in there. You might have some luck tapping it out sideways but you run the risk of maybe pulling some of the board out with it.
I typically have used a thin razor saw to saw through the middle of the nut across its entire width, and almost it’s full depth, then used liners or pincers to collapse it in on itself and then pull it free.
normally, the bone nuts may require a little fitting, and a small drop or two of glue to hold them in place. Titebond or wood glue is fine. You can use very small drops of medium consistency super glue, but if you have to remove it in future this can be a pain.

[Trevor Davies]

Hi Luthnoob,
Sorry to say that I'm not sure about this kit.

Have you tried looking under the PBA-4 kit (or PBH-4 or maybe the GPB-4M)? This looks to be a bigger version of the PB-30R with a different body wood. I would expect that the soldering would be similar.

As far as the nut in concerned - I use a wooden block and a hammer - a gentle tap on the nut and it comes off. I usually use a few drops of CA glue to fix the nut on (But was told last week that I should not ! see below)

Quote from McCreed:
"As for nuts, Titebond works also but I prefer PVA. However I would advise against CA (sorry Trevor!).

If (more like when) the nut needs to be removed (for a refret; or repair etc) CA can result in tear out from the fret board or nut slot. PVA will come out cleanly and has a quicker set time when installing the nut."

Taken from https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...410#post209410 - post 6.

[FrankenWashie]

Hi Luthnoob,
Sorry to say that I'm not sure about this kit.

Have you tried looking under the PBA-4 kit (or PBH-4 or maybe the GPB-4M)? This looks to be a bigger version of the PB-30R with a different body wood. I would expect that the soldering would be similar.

As far as the nut in concerned - I use a wooden block and a hammer - a gentle tap on the nut and it comes off. I usually use a few drops of CA glue to fix the nut on (But was told last week that I should not ! see below)

Quote from McCreed:
"As for nuts, Titebond works also but I prefer PVA. However I would advise against CA (sorry Trevor!).

If (more like when) the nut needs to be removed (for a refret; or repair etc) CA can result in tear out from the fret board or nut slot. PVA will come out cleanly and has a quicker set time when installing the nut."

Taken from https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...410#post209410 - post 6.

Ha ha SNAP Trev!

[McCreed]

You're already in good hands Luthnoob!

I'm not a bass player nor have I built one, but happy to help in any way through your journey.

Cheers,
Mick

[luthnoob]

What a great community! Thanks for the redirect to the PBA/PHA-4 builds. I'll check them out now. Also for the guidance on the nut. Who knows how long I would have mucked around trying to find out that intro by myself!

[luthnoob]

Hi all,

I got distracted by another job for a while (replacing carpet with new timber floors) but that's done so hopefully can make more progress on the guitar.

Good news first:
I've swapped out the nut. A sharp chisel at 45 degrees had the plastic one out in a jiff and PVA glue worked a treat for the bone nut.
I've found the right instructions for the electronics and feel like I understand it (although it took me a while to sort out that the black lead goes to the bridge itself, not the bridge pickup)
I also figure out that the small hole between the cavity and the bridge is for that earthing wire to the bridge

Now for the question:
Reading the manual it says that I should tape up the fretboard, use texta to mark up each fret and then lightly sand back any high spots. But at this stage the strings aren't on so there's no pressure on the neck and the convex shape from the factory hasn't been stretched back to straight. I would have thought that if I flatten the frets now and then add pressure to the neck with the strings, I'll end up with a concave shape and the frets in the middle being too high. Am I over-thinking this? I really don't want to stuff up that beautiful rosewood neck!

Thanks.