Overlander's IB-5 - First kit build.

[Overlander]

So I have finally spent some time clearing a few other projects and am about to get stuck into this build.

I spent some time marking out the centre of the body today to get a few lines to help place the bridge.

I had previously read here somewhere about setting saddle positions at around mid travel and locating bridge with saddles at double the distance from nut to 12th fret......


But I also recall something about adjusting the G string saddle to more like 3/4 out and using the G string starting point. I haven't been able to find that again though.

Based on the 34" scale, the bridge is quite close to the pickup as shown in the pic below.


Any tips greatly appreciated.

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[Simon Barden]

The intonation length is always going to be slightly longer than the nominal scale length, and the thicker the string then the longer the intonation length will be (it's actually more to do with core wire diameter that the wrap thickness, but on a bass, the core wire size should scale with string gauge). So the thinnest string, the G string in this instance, is going to have it's saddle furthest 'forwards' (towards the neck) and the B string the furthest backwards.

So if you start with the saddles at the half-way position and adjust the bridge position so that the centre of the saddle is at the nominal 34" scale length, then the G saddle is always going to have to move back from that, and the B saddle move back even further - leaving you minimal adjustment room.

I'd always suggest moving the saddles forwards, leaving about 5mm of thread showing in front, then positioning the bridge to the scale length on the centre of the G string saddle. There may be instances where the saddle may have to be this far forwards to get the intonation correct, but normally on good quality strings with a uniform mass per unit length and no variations of core wire thickness along the string length, the saddles will move back by a couple of mm from this position.

You can see from your own saddle picture that the B and E string intonation screws are shorter, because they know that the saddles will never need to be as far forward as the D and G string saddles. So I'd adjust the G string saddle back a bit to around where the B string saddle is shown in your photo, and position the centre of the saddle at the full scale length, when measured from the fretboard edge of the G string slot with a straight edged ruler. Extending measures aren't the best tool to use for this sort of measurement.

[Overlander]

That's exactly the information I was looking for. Thanks Simon..

Maybe this info could be added to this Sticky on bass bridge placement, as it's nearly all part of the one stage??

http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=3048

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[Overlander]

So it has been a good Father's Day....

Got some time this evening to get a bit more done which was great.

Using Simon's advice and other tips from the sticky post above I got the bridge located and holes drilled, which although relatively simple, felt like a good milestone.

After a couple of dummy runs with the clamps, I ended up drilling and attaching the neck first, then stringing the B A and G strings which ensured the middle A string ran up the middle of the fretboard.

I double checked string distance to the edge f the pickup routes as well and when I was happy I marked the holes for the bridge. Lock it in Eddie!!

I mounted the machine heads, pickups and strap buttons as well, so now it's strip back apart again and start sanding.

For some reason I have a urge to put a racing stripe on this bass..... Maybe a natural stripe with the rest in grey?

I think the urge may pass..... Not sure??

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[Overlander]

Something like this....

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[Simon Barden]

It's a nice idea, but is probably only going to work well if you spray the dark stain on and keep the spray light and don't let the surface go wet.

People have tried masking off stripes like this, but if you use a sponge or rag to apply the stain it still tends to seep under the masking tape in places, so the edges are often less than pristine. The only way to really guarantee a decent light stripe is to mask off the dark areas, spray the light areas with a clear lacquer spray, then mask off the light areas again and then apply the dark stain. That should keep thinks nice and tidy.

A lot of those stripes in the pictures are there because the body is made up of sections of light and dark wood glued together, and so are built-in.

[Overlander]

Hmmm. Good insight into the many pitfalls that await noobs like myself...

Yes, the laminated bodies of alternate light / dark timber caught my eye, mainly due to the position and proportions of the stripe. Hard to replicate well after the fact.

I had a thought that maybe using different grain fillers (like a black and another one as light as possible) may have worked, but as they are applied fairly wet (as I understand to achieve a grain pop) the seeping of the colour under the mask you mention, would probably ruin the crisp edges and desired effect.

Thanks again Simon.

I think you have helped that urge to pass lol

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[FredA]

I also wanted to try and do these stripes when I was building my IB5 but also concluded that leaving clean stripes with tint would be too hard.
I reckon you could spray paint dark stripes over the tint though, like that semi-accoustic you have on the last photo

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[Overlander]

Yes, that looks quote effective... Subtle....

Not sure if I want a finish quite that dark.....

I do like your IB-5 Fred , however my existing Tune bass is fairly dark, so keen to go somewhere else with this bass.

[mallynoshow]

Love it Overlander. Building my first IB5 also. Went with oak stain and 6 coats of satin poly. Should have mounted the bridge pryor to staining, but over exuberance got the better of me. The pup cavities will be black to mask any bare timber.