You could always buy a knob and bushing puller. http://luthierssupplies.com.au/produ...oducts_id=2730
I've got the very same one (though bought in the UK). I used it on my Gibson Les Paul when I changed the hardware over from gold to nickel and it worked very well, didn't leave a mark. For knobs, the butterfly nut should be OK, but for bushes you'll probably need to use some grips on it as well to get enough leverage.
I had the same issue and used a variation of the technique mentionned above, with bits of wood, an M8 bolt and a large washer.
See: http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...l=1#post102014
I used an M8x40 bolt, and because it was quite long, and my wood 'spacer' not very thick, the bolt was actually pushing on the bottom of the hole as well as pulling from the washer.
Worked very well and the washer came out without any issues.
Last edited by FredA; 16-11-2016 at 06:08 PM.
#1- STA1M - Completed Jan16 - GOTM Feb16 - Here
#2- IB5 - Completed Aug16 - Here
#3- 335 style 12 strings - 3rd build - Almost done - Here
No #- SG1 'Franck Zappa' - Completed Apr16 for a friend - No build diary (yet?)
#4- 'The Red Plywood Strat' - Completed Aug16 - Here
#5- ST-1JR Star Wars - Completed Dec16 - Here
#6- SG 3 pickups - Almost done - Here
#7- JBA-4M JPJ Bass - Completed Mar18 - Here
Lazy way out would be a solid colour all over including the binding but it would need to be rubbed and sanded back first to get it nice and smooth.
Deddy's idea about gently sanding the binding may work, just depends how deep those cracks are? Presume they will have varying depths as you move around from gentle to tighter curves.
# 1 - EX-5 https://goo.gl/fQJMqh
# 2 - EX-1 https://goo.gl/KSY9W9
# 3 - Non PBG Tele https://goo.gl/W14G5g
# 4 - Non PBG J Bass https://goo.gl/FbBaFy
# 5 - TL-1AR GOTM Aug 2017 https://goo.gl/sUh14s
# 6 - MMB-4 Runner-up GOTM Oct 2018https://goo.gl/gvrPkp
# 7 - ES-1 Runner-up GOTM Aug 2018https://goo.gl/T9BEY8
I have the same issue with binding cracks on an ES build. Essentially I am scraping the binding as best I can and the cracks stay as character. I'm not going to relic or anything like that, but my colours are sort of like an old violin, so it should all work.
Stan's LP Build for my Sister: http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=3146
Benson Pickup Strat mod: http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=5229
Epiphone LP headstock fix: http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=3410
Martin Backpacker Repair: http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...?t=5038&page=3
'57 Harmony Jazz guitar project: http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=2972
Freakey, the stain seeping into cracked binding actually happens quite a lot. I have never seen anyone on the forum actually "fix" it or come up with a solution. Everyone I've seen just does what you are doing and changes their vision for the guitar to a relic build. Its actually a pretty cool effect which you cannot replicate. I bet Dedman is chomping at the bit.
Good luck mate I'm sure you'll get this build back on track.
Build #1 - ST-1 - Completed
Build #2 - LP-1SS - Completed
Build #3 - TLA-1R - Completed
Build #4 - SGD-612 - Completed
Build #5 - ES-1G - Completed
Build #6 - STA-1HT | Completed
Build #7 - ST1JR - Completed
Current Build #8 - JBA-4
Build #9 - Semi-scratch build Tele x 2 - Completed
Current Build #10 - PRS-1H
Current Build #11 - AGJR-1 - Completed
Current Build #12 - ATL-1SB
Current Build #13 - GST-1
Current Build #14 - FBM-1
If the binding is like that right around then keep it and tell yourself it is a deliberate marbling effect (from what I've seen so far on your guitar I quite like the effect). Some one, can't remember who, successfully dyed the binding black after this happened on their guitar.
Current:
GTH-1
Completed:
AST-1FB
First Act ME276 (resurrected curb-side find)
ES-5V
Scratchie lapsteel
Custom ST-1 12 String
JBA-4
TL-1TB
Scratch Lapsteel
Meinl DIY Cajon
Cigar Box lap steel
Wishing:
Baritone
Open D/Standard Double 6 twin neck
You might try a scslpel blade to clean the binding. My RC4 A build had a major mishap in staining, and I'd also scratched the hell out of the binding so that black stain was all jammed in it. I used the edge of a very sharp scalpel to scrape across the surface of the binding as you would rolling butter on a knife. Rolled a thin layer of the plastic, taking the scratches and staining with it leaving the binding perfect.
Thanks for all the help guys. I got the bushings out with some help from a friend who basically wielded a a screw that fitted the bushing on to a metal pole.the pole has a weight on it which can move up the down the length of pole and at the top a stopper. There is probably a name for the tool but I don't know it.
Anyway, screw the pole into the bushing and tap the weight against the stopper at the top, bushing comes out.
In other news I've sanded a good bit of the guitar but ran out of paper. Hopefully I can get it all finished next weekend. Gona be fiddly around the neck and f holes.
Now thinking about aging the hardware. Anyone any advise or ways they have tried? Can u use chlorine? I don't want to shell out for relic hardware.
Nice idea! The tool you describe is called a 'slide hammer'
Reply With Quote
Originally Posted by Andyxlh
