G'day H, comments from all of the guys before me have provided most of the answers however I will share a few obstacles worth pondering before jumping in the deep end.
Fret removal - as a fret profile is T shaped the bit that lies underneath fret board surface has jagged edges to help the frets bind to the board. I used around 1" chisel to gently prise an end then gently grabbed the raised bit with pliers and removed all 20 of the blighters. Should have paid more attention to the You Tube Vids as I reckon heating the frets with the soldering iron first would have reduced the amount of splintering that was encountered.
Fret Marker Filler - Originally had bought the plastic plant label strips and then tripped over DB's thread from a few years ago where he used CA glue over Timber Mate which is what I ended up doing too. You just need to sand the FB down once all the frets are out then mask up so that just the fret lines to be filled are showing. Don't forget to also mask up along the length of the neck on either side of the FB to keep the filler in place and not spew out. Needs to be left to dry for a few days and then sands off real easy.
FB Radius - you can spend lots of money on plenty of things and this was one that I skipped. Used a cork sanding block lightly and followed the very flattish contour that was already there. It may have come out a bit flatter which doesn't bother me.
Owned a Yammy BB1000 back early 1980's that someone had converted by using Maple strips placed into the ebony FB and it was untreated other than waxed. Was using Rotosound regular guage Round Wounds at the time and they did not damage the FB, maybe that was because Ebony is harder than Rosewood. Initially wanted to do a similar thing but finding strips of Maple seemed difficult and more expensive than method used. If you think upright Double Bass their FB's are all untreated, possibly waxed, but definitely no shiny coating.
Hope this helps in some way before you commence your fretless journey.