NON-PBG Build 2 - LP Build Diary for DIY Guitars GLP-40BBK

[wazkelly]

Hi Buddy, sanding will get rid of it quite easily but be very careful on that precious spalt cap as you can sand through without noticing before it is too late.

In the PUP cavities, do the PUP's still have enough clearance? If so, nothing to worry about, in fact you may even prefer the dark background down in those holes. If not, maybe scrape out from above with a very sharp chisel or Stanley knife blade. The aim is not to touch any wood, just scrape off the Timber Mate as it will be almost like a plastic film on top of everything. Once you get back to the timber switch to light sanding, probably 240 or 320.

[wokkaboy]

Hi Alkay, don't worry too much about timbermate in the pup cavities, you should be able to remove most of it with a narrow paint scraper, chisel or large flat screwdriver. I usually leave a bit of TM residue and just line the cavities with copper shielding. Next build maybe mask tape off the cavities as it does tend to go everywhere !

As Waz says be careful not to do any damage to the veneer

[Alkay]

Hi Alkay, don't worry too much about timbermate in the pup cavities, you should be able to remove most of it with a narrow paint scraper, chisel or large flat screwdriver. I usually leave a bit of TM residue and just line the cavities with copper shielding. Next build maybe mask tape off the cavities as it does tend to go everywhere !

As Waz says be careful not to do any damage to the veneer

Ok thanks waz and woks,

I was thinking stanley knife or chisel but I thought I would check here first.

Anyway, here is a pic of the mess:



Cheers,

Alkay

[wazkelly]

Doesn't look too bad. Even 0000 steel wool would take that off if you think you need to.

[Alkay]

Hi Alkay, don't worry too much about timbermate in the pup cavities, you should be able to remove most of it with a narrow paint scraper, chisel or large flat screwdriver. I usually leave a bit of TM residue and just line the cavities with copper shielding. Next build maybe mask tape off the cavities as it does tend to go everywhere !

As Waz says be careful not to do any damage to the veneer

...and mask the cavities yes. I thought I could get away with it. Anyway, thank you. Lesson learned.

[Alkay]

Doesn't look too bad. Even 0000 steel wool would take that off if you think you need to.

Cool, I was thinking I need to use the conductive shielding paint I bought in the PUP cavities so that mess will not make it um....conduct to well hey haha.

I'll remove it all very carefully.

[wokkaboy]

Hi Alkay the timbermate doesn't look too bad in the cavities. Definitely clean up the neck pocket so the neck heel fits flush.
Rest in the pickup cavities will come out with a chisel carefully or even sandpaper, but don't worry if there's a bit of residue in them.
I just use a vacuum cleaner to suck out the particles as it's messy stuff

[Alkay]

Hi Alkay the timbermate doesn't look too bad in the cavities. Definitely clean up the neck pocket so the neck heel fits flush.
Rest in the pickup cavities will come out with a chisel carefully or even sandpaper, but don't worry if there's a bit of residue in them.
I just use a vacuum cleaner to suck out the particles as it's messy stuff

Ok thanks wokkaboy,

I'll do that, I have access to an air compressor I can use so that should do the trick. Might be a few days before I get to that. The weather isn't so great here. My other build is coming along nice and I'm about to do another coat of tru oil.

Cheers,

Alkay.

[Alkay]

Ok it's been awhile on this build because of the problems with the other one but this is where I am at:

- 1 coat of timbermate over the whole body. I can't see any obvious blemishes over the body. Maybe it was 2 coats, a few beers were involved back then so I'm not absolutely sure haha. I'm on 320 at this stage.

I have seen a video on raising the grain after sanding which uses denatured alcohol(metho) to achieve this and then hit it with 320 again. Then move up to 400 and repeat with the metho with each grit as you go up. Apparently it raises the fine fibres so they can be carefully brushed off to give a smooth finish.

I'm thinking about trying this but here are some photos first.

Front:



See the white dots that don't look so great beside the control cavity, any thoughts on fixing this:



Cheers,

Alkay.

[wazkelly]

Hi mate, timber looks like Mahogany and the white dots are showing up the grain pores which may not have been sanded off.

May need to go back to 180 or 240 to sand those off as higher grades will just polish everything all around and do nothing towards removing the slight grain indented bits if that makes sense.

Alternatively, depending on what you plan to use as a finish, sometimes additional top coats will act as a grain filler but it does mean more wet sanding further down the track if you are chasing a smooth as glass finish.