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Thread: Shielding AGAIN I hear you say

  1. #21
    Mentor Marcel's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Old Tooth Hopkins View Post
    While we're on this topic, I was researching a similar issue, and whether aluminium can be used and came across this interesting thread on strat-talk...

    Quote:

    "I can't find the technical links now, but aluminium has better shielding characteristics at audio frequencies and is especially better at shielding against the particular noises such as those generated by fluorescent lights.

    I think it has a correspondingly higher effect on the tone; I shielded a Tele with al foil tape and did not notice a change in sound - although that was a bright guitar to start with. My Strat came with a thickish al pickguard and always sounded a little dull/warm. Changing this out for a plastic guard with foil shielding really let the highs sparkle, quite noticeably to me.

    One of the main advantages of copper is that it can be found with conductive glue, and can very easily be soldered. People give good reports of its function as a shield too."


    What are the experienced builders' views on this?

    Thanks
    Virtually any conductive metal can be (and has been) used as shielding.

    Materials in common use today in the electronics industry are metals like Tin plate, block Aluminium, sheet steel and galvanised steel.... Equally valid options are things like Gold leaf (think of the Apollo lunar landers), Lead sheet and cast Iron...

    Hopefully you all can see a theme here in regards to shielding ... Aluminium or Copper, both work equally as well...

  2. #22
    Overlord of Music Sonic Mountain's Avatar
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    I shielded my cheapy ashton bass with Aluminum foil and spray adhesive - finally got rid of a hum that has bugged me for ages. So I concur that it works fine (and is cheap as chips)

    I've done a couple of my PBG builds with copper tape and they are all silent as well. It seems to be more worthwhile when you have single coils. I have a number of un shielded guitars with humbuckers that aren't noisy at all.
    Build 1 - Shoegazer MK1 JMA-1
    Build 2 - The Relliecaster TL-1
    Build 3 - The Black Cherry SG AG-1
    Build 4 - The Sonicaster TL-1ish
    Build 5 - The Steampunker Bass YB-4
    Build 6 - The Howling Gowing ST-1

    "What I lack in talent I make up for with enthusiasm"

  3. #23
    GAStronomist wazkelly's Avatar
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    Still a good idea to shield control cavities whether single coil or humbucker, just don't need to go as nuts on the HB's.

    Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk
    # 1 - EX-5 https://goo.gl/fQJMqh
    # 2 - EX-1 https://goo.gl/KSY9W9
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    # 4 - Non PBG J Bass https://goo.gl/FbBaFy
    # 5 - TL-1AR GOTM Aug 2017 https://goo.gl/sUh14s
    # 6 - MMB-4 Runner-up GOTM Oct 2018https://goo.gl/gvrPkp
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  4. #24
    Mentor Marcel's Avatar
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    Just came across this video... at least one big lesson (about shielding) to be had here...

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5LDu-AJgWL0


  5. #25
    Overlord of Music fender3x's Avatar
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    I agree that they work equally well, and that there is no sonic difference between the two. I have used copper tape which is expensive and doesn't solder will. And aluminum AC ducting tape which does not solder at all, but is conductive through the adhesive used to hold it in place and is dirt cheap. One $10 roll is enough to do every guitar I will ever buy or build.

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk

  6. #26
    Since he made a sweeping derogatory statement about 'kit guitars' I've simply avoided this bumptious git.

    cheers, Mark.

  7. #27
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    He's quite fun at times, but does display a lot of ignorance (or at least acts that way for the camera). He touches the bridge pickup cover, which isn't earthed, and says "it's fine". Also, you really should check for continuity on the ohms setting, as screening works up to about 1meg ohm, it doesn't have to be <1 ohm.

    I can get very cheap copper tape on eBay, Fender3x, which does take solder well (at least for me) from eBay. Say US$8 for a 30m roll of 1.25" tape. But even with the conductive adhesive stuff you still need to check for continuity between strips and I find I often need to put another strip crosswise over strips running parallel to get good continuity (I have no idea why as there is always a decent overlap). I have bought much more expensive screening kits in the past with a mixture of thin tape and large sections of thin copper which can look neater, but now just use the tape.

  8. #28
    Quote Originally Posted by Simon Barden View Post
    He does display a lot of ignorance
    I will take on board one nugget of info.. 'That's 20 minutes of my life that I'm not getting back'.

    cheers, Mark.

  9. Liked by: wazkelly

  10. #29
    Mentor Marcel's Avatar
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    All of us display some level of ignorance to what others consider as their trade... I honestly can't call myself a painter/finisher or a luthier for that matter but it doesn't stop me from giving it a decent go...

    While I did laugh most of the way through the video I'll give him credit in that he did somehow achieve the desired outcome, that being a working and correctly shielded set of electronics in the guitar...

  11. #30
    Overlord of Music fender3x's Avatar
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    I may have just had bad luck with my copper tape, though I think I got it some place reputable. Agree that MUCH continuity testing should be done no matter what method is used.

    That said, Simon is right that copper tape is not that expensive. It's more that Alu tape is dirt cheap, easy to get at big box stores, and comes in 2" by 50 yard lengths...

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk

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