Good to hear. Crowning is always the longest and most tedious step for me, hoping it will speed it up significantly.
Good to hear. Crowning is always the longest and most tedious step for me, hoping it will speed it up significantly.
'As long as there's, you know, sex and drugs, I can do without the rock and roll.'
To be honest, the method I use is the easiest I have seen.
You need to be organised for this to work.
Step 1.
When ordering your kit, pay DB to do it.
Step 2.
Build Guitar
Step 3.
Wonder why you didn't do it that way on your first kit.
Last edited by Rabbitz; 30-05-2016 at 06:45 PM.
Col.
I admit that I am an agent of Satan, however, my duties are largely ceremonial.
\m/
Bwahahahahaha!
Too funny, Rabz
There is always a workaround for glitches, mistakes and other Guitar building gremlins.....
Hi DB, did you ever upload your own fret levelling videos ?
Thanks
Laz
Hey Laz, tried to but poo toobe was being un helpful at the time..
Will try again when I get a spare five hours.....
There is always a workaround for glitches, mistakes and other Guitar building gremlins.....
Hey DB how big is the file you are trying to upload to YT ? Might be easier if you split it into 2 parts.
When I upload gopro vids above 400MB in size I just upload it and leave the PC running and check the progress every hour or so
Current Builds and status
scratch end grain pine tele - first clear coat on !
JBA-4 - assembled - final tweaks
Telemonster double scale tele - finish tobacco burst on body and sand neck
Completed builds
scratch oak.rose gum Jazzmaster - assembled needs setup
MK-2 Mosrite - assembled - play in
Ash tele with Baritone neck - neck pup wiring tweaks and play in
Any updates on the fret levelling videos Dingo Bass Cheers
Hi all you cleva guitar builders.
Hope you can advise me on the Leveling beam I ordered from PitBull guitars with my kits. It's 15 cm long so not as long as the ones in the video's in this thread.
Q1. Is leveling with this short leveling beam effective to get good level frets.
Should a manufacture my own longer one from a aluminum spirit level with 400 grit sandpaper stuck to it with the masking tape and supa glue trick?
Q2. I started with this PBG leveling beam with the 600 grit side. After maybe 2 dozen passes, the sand paper was smooth and no longer removing any material.
I then moved to the 1000grit side and the occurred.
Is this normal for this product?
Should I have used a lubricant like oil on the beam?
Can I "refresh" the sandpaper on this leveling beam? Maybe using the same masking tape and supa glue trick?
Looking forward to your answers and suggestions.
Thanx
Christo
Sent from my SM-A315F using Tapatalk
christoboucher, I'm not sure on question 1, but regarding question 2: I use a simple pink eraser I bought from the dollar store and it removes the sanding dust from/refreshes the paper pretty well. Granted, I haven't tried it with metal sanding, but works when sanding wood, lacquer or CA glue!
Last edited by Toolman76; 30-06-2021 at 03:35 AM.
Looking on Amazon for a similar product, it would appear as I thought, that the metal block isn't designed to sand directly, but you are supposed to use double sided tape (or masking tape and CA) to stick sandpaper to it. Probably why it wasn't very effective.
I started out with a 15cm diamond fret levelling file, but now I tend to use an appropriate radius block with sandpaper stuck to it if doing a whole neck.
I was levelling frets today and was thinking that you really want either a very long beam, so that you do all the frets at once, or else quite a short beam and run it all the way up and down the neck in a single go. I was tending to keep my radius block in one place, which meant that as I moved it backwards and forwards by a couple of inches (I was working on removing string-worn dents in the frets near the nut), the frets at the ends of the block got about half the number of rubs as the frets beneath the main part of the block.
I only use one grit, P240, when working along the neck. No point in using anything finer as once the frets are level, you'll be attacking the frets with a profiling file (either radiused or a flat blade file and filing to profile the fret as you wish). So there is no point getting the tops of the frets smooth to 1200 grit when you are going to make them rough again.
More black marker, file away until there's just a very thin black line down the middle of each fret, and then swap to sandpaper (I do sandpaper P240 to P800 and then MicroMesh). I do equal rubs of each grit of sandpaper to try and keep the wear (and so fret height) even. 50 rubs with P240, then 20 with P320, then 10 rubs per fret up to 12000 MicroMesh. Then I do a final rub with metal polish.
Do mask off the fretboard first when working on the frets. I now use rolls of modellers masking tape which come in a pack with different widths, which makes it easy to use one or two pieces per fret segment. A lot easier than trying to cut down a standard roll of masking tape.
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