NON-PBG - LP Build Diary for DIY Guitars GLP-40BBK

[Simon Barden]

This is why you should never trust a guitar store that does while-you-wait set-ups. Any set-up certainly needs at least one overnight waiting period followed by another check. Very small truss rod tweaks don't normally take that long to settle down, but anything more than 1/4 turn and you're better off waiting a good while before checking again.

To get your action as low as possible might require some light fret stoning and re-profiling. But one step at a time.

[Alkay]

This is why you should never trust a guitar store that does while-you-wait set-ups. Any set-up certainly needs at least one overnight waiting period followed by another check. Very small truss rod tweaks don't normally take that long to settle down, but anything more than 1/4 turn and you're better off waiting a good while before checking again.

To get your action as low as possible might require some light fret stoning and re-profiling. But one step at a time.

Hi Simon, yes a good point and at least if I learn correctly I can work towards getting it perfect.

If I can get the action close to my ibanez I will be very happy.

I think I might need to buy some fretting tools. This isnt a once off Im going to keep building these kits and eventually try a scratch build further down the track.

cheers,

Alkay.

[Alkay]

Forgot to add...there is a tiny amount of bow with the notched straight edge.

I can see a very tiny gap between it and the fretboard so the neck has bow or concave.

I'll try another 1/4 turn clockwise to straighten the neck more.


Then tune it and let it rest overnight.

Apologies for short sentences I'm on my phone.

Cheers,

Alkay..

[Simon Barden]

Certainly worth investing in some fret levelling and crowning files then! The crowning files come in various fret widths, so unless you go and buy a mixed set, it's worth measuring your guitars for their fret widths and seeing what they use. You may never need the very thin ones (unless you are working on some vintage instruments or maybe small instruments like a mandolin.

I've built up quite a collection of luthier type tools over the past 18 months, some more used than others, but all are useful if you've got that particular job to do!

[Alkay]

I'll start searching soon for luthier fret tools.

I have a washburn pre 1978 banjo here which I'll post soon.

But I think you will all agree it needs allot of work.

cheers,

Alkay.

[Alkay]

Certainly worth investing in some fret levelling and crowning files then! The crowning files come in various fret widths, so unless you go and buy a mixed set, it's worth measuring your guitars for their fret widths and seeing what they use. You may never need the very thin ones (unless you are working on some vintage instruments or maybe small instruments like a mandolin.

I've built up quite a collection of luthier type tools over the past 18 months, some more used than others, but all are useful if you've got that particular job to do!

Just did 1/4 turn clockwise of truss rod and tuned it.
Frets 3-8 still have a slight gap when I put the straight edge on.

should I adjust another 1/4 turn clockwise then tune it and leave it overnight?

Cheers,

Alkay

[Simon Barden]

Always best to leave it a while after any truss rod change. And you'll probably want a small gap there. Unless the frets are very well levelled indeed, you'll never get it buzz-free without a small amount of neck relief. Too much neck-relief and you'll need to lower the bridge to get a decent action on the lower frets - but this means that the strings will probably be too low on the higher frets - causing buzzing and/or choking out when string bending. It's always a fine balancing act.

Once you've found the best buzz-free compromise, then you can look at lowering the nut slots if there's a noticeable gap between the strings and the 1st fret. If not, leave well alone, but if there is, then you will want to file down the slots to lower the string height. Too high a nut slot can make fretting on the low frets quite hard, and the extra amount you have to stretch the strings to touch the frets can affect intonation and make those notes sound sharp. Plus lower slots also means a lower action when the strings are un-fretted. But it is easy to go too far when doing this, so go very gently, just a few strokes at a time. And it's best to use a thin feeler gauge between the string and the 1st fret to help you from taking it too low.

[Alkay]

Always best to leave it a while after any truss rod change. And you'll probably want a small gap there. Unless the frets are very well levelled indeed, you'll never get it buzz-free without a small amount of neck relief. Too much neck-relief and you'll need to lower the bridge to get a decent action on the lower frets - but this means that the strings will probably be too low on the higher frets - causing buzzing and/or choking out when string bending. It's always a fine balancing act.

Once you've found the best buzz-free compromise, then you can look at lowering the nut slots if there's a noticeable gap between the strings and the 1st fret. If not, leave well alone, but if there is, then you will want to file down the slots to lower the string height. Too high a nut slot can make fretting on the low frets quite hard, and the extra amount you have to stretch the strings to touch the frets can affect intonation and make those notes sound sharp. Plus lower slots also means a lower action when the strings are un-fretted. But it is easy to go too far when doing this, so go very gently, just a few strokes at a time. And it's best to use a thin feeler gauge between the string and the 1st fret to help you from taking it too low.

Hi Simon,

I haven't been on here for awhile. It took me a bit of time to get the neck settled but I'm really happy with it now so thank you. Lots of patience has payed off.

I think I might do a sound clip or a video to give a demo soon. I'm doing two other builds now at the moment.

Cheers,

Alkay.