Thanks Gav for the kind words! Wouldn't have been possible without the info on the forum! Thanks Dedman too, will see how the clear goes...speaking of paint...
Thanks Gav for the kind words! Wouldn't have been possible without the info on the forum! Thanks Dedman too, will see how the clear goes...speaking of paint...
First coat of Dingotone Uluru red went on today. Followed the youtube instructions, did about three passes before deciding to hang it up to cure till next weekend. You'll notice I forgot to line the cavities with painter's tape beforehand - doh! - now I know for next time.
There are a few spots (mainly in the curves on the sides) where the stain won't take - did I not sand enough here?
Anyway I'm pretty happy with the colour overall. It looks great, lives up to the name Uluru red for sure!
And even though it's 3-piece basswood, there are some really cool grain patterns around the input jack that I like
Hey Michael, nice job with the string through! Respect for using a hand drill. Have a quick look at bungees diary, I think when you fit the ferrules after staining, intensifying and final coats you use a soldering iron to heat them up. apparently this makes them stick.
The uluru red looks magic. its only going to get better with more stain coats and intensifying coats!!!! excitement plus. At the moment I'm leaving a full 7 days between coats and it seems to be curing well in that time.
I'm surprised to hear that the DT is not taking in some spots. probably more like you've sanded it too much and haven't left enough tooth for the stain to take. No matter just rough those bits up with a bit of 320 grit just before you do the next stain coat. Unless DB tells you otherwise.
Also, I don't bother taping up the cavities, if a bit of stain gets in there, no problem it'll be covered up by the bridge, pickguard and control plate.
Keep us updated!
Build #1 - ST-1 - Completed
Build #2 - LP-1SS - Completed
Build #3 - TLA-1R - Completed
Build #4 - SGD-612 - Completed
Build #5 - ES-1G - Completed
Build #6 - STA-1HT | Completed
Build #7 - ST1JR - Completed
Current Build #8 - JBA-4
Build #9 - Semi-scratch build Tele x 2 - Completed
Current Build #10 - PRS-1H
Current Build #11 - AGJR-1 - Completed
Current Build #12 - ATL-1SB
Current Build #13 - GST-1
Current Build #14 - FBM-1
Looking good. I've said it before but I'm always surprised how nice basswood comes up. Looks like you've scored a nice piece here.
Current Projects
#Planning 5 String Bass
Thanks Andy, I'll check out the soldering iron technique. So did you sand between dingotone stain coats? I reckon I'll lightly steel wool, but I might shoot DB an email and see what he thinks.
Andrew, the body has come up trumps, didn't start to notice the grain till now
Nice work so far, that body is nice, and nice work bring it to life
Stan's LP Build for my Sister: http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=3146
Benson Pickup Strat mod: http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=5229
Epiphone LP headstock fix: http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=3410
Martin Backpacker Repair: http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...?t=5038&page=3
'57 Harmony Jazz guitar project: http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=2972
I usually don't sand between stain coats. That being said if the wood wasn't really taking the stain (bearing in mind you can really work the stain coats in), i'd probably give the trouble spots a light sand to get some tooth in there, then re-stain.
The stain coats will darken as they cure. To get a really deep colour, I do about 3 - 4 stain coats (the 4th only if necessary). Keep some stain left in the bottle in case you drop it or scuff it and have to sand and fix and apply more stain.
When you move to the intensifying coat, the colour will richen even more. I usually use, 600 grit (only if absolutly required), 000 steel wool and/or 2000 in the direction of the grain to iron out the lumpy bits in the intensifying coats before re-applying the next coat. same with the final coats.
Good luck mate, you'll get addicted to the aroma of DT
Build #1 - ST-1 - Completed
Build #2 - LP-1SS - Completed
Build #3 - TLA-1R - Completed
Build #4 - SGD-612 - Completed
Build #5 - ES-1G - Completed
Build #6 - STA-1HT | Completed
Build #7 - ST1JR - Completed
Current Build #8 - JBA-4
Build #9 - Semi-scratch build Tele x 2 - Completed
Current Build #10 - PRS-1H
Current Build #11 - AGJR-1 - Completed
Current Build #12 - ATL-1SB
Current Build #13 - GST-1
Current Build #14 - FBM-1
Hi Michael, having built 3 kits out of Basswood I can say that on some curves or edges the stain won't take as well as in other areas and only through reapplying will it gradually accept some colour. Just the nature of the beast with this timber.
That said, it is way too easy to over sand and end up with shiny bits that tend to repel stain. If you got up to 400 grit you went too far as 240 seems to be about far enough as you can get things smoother later after top coats have been done.
If you did go too hard on the sanding suggest going back to 120 then 180 and maybe 240 but no higher.
Unfortunately this will strip most of your first stain coat but will help getting it to take colour overall.
Thanks Waz,
I went up to 400 grit but it seems that stain takes pretty well. I've done three coats of the stain now. I'll throw some piccies up when I get home.
I've been a bit slack with updating, but will fix that tonight. Got some nice nice progress to report on.
sounds good Michael, look forward to seeing the latest pics of the build !
Current Builds and status
scratch end grain pine tele - first clear coat on !
JBA-4 - assembled - final tweaks
Telemonster double scale tele - finish tobacco burst on body and sand neck
Completed builds
scratch oak.rose gum Jazzmaster - assembled needs setup
MK-2 Mosrite - assembled - play in
Ash tele with Baritone neck - neck pup wiring tweaks and play in