LP-1M Second Build

[Muzza]

Would you do a few neat coats of TO followed by a wet sand to pore fill then repeat the coat and wet sand route and if so,

Although I haven't tried this method, I've read that a good idea is to apply the first coat of TO with (I think...) 600 grit W&D. [EDIT! I found the video - it's actually 1200 grit.]

This works as a grain/scratch filler as the first TO coat takes on the colour of the finish.

Like I said, I haven't tried this method yet, but I intend to with my first build. I'm still only at the intensifier stage at the moment, so watch this space...

[Fuzzbeard]

Although I haven't tried this method, I've read that a good idea is to apply the first coat of TO with (I think...) 600 grit W&D.

This works as a grain/scratch filler as the first TO coat takes on the colour of the finish.

Like I said, I haven't tried this method yet, but I intend to with my first build. I'm still only at the intensifier stage at the moment, so watch this space...

Watched a YouTube video of a guy doing this about 15 minutes ago

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[wazkelly]

Hi Fuzzy, my Builds # 1 & #2 were done with DT Stain & Intensifier followed by multiple coats of TO. Applied first couple of coats with a 1" paint brush and bodies soaked up plenty and this helped to pore/grain fill. Wet sanded with 1500 & 2000 and you will not find this stuff at the big green shed. I ended up buying some at Autobarn as this fine grade of paper is often used in finishing cars. The trick is to just smooth things off a bit and not take too much of the extra fine coats of hand rubbed TO off in the process. Eventually bought some micro mesh pads that range from 4000, 6000, 8000, up to 12,000 and are great for final prepping before applying Maguires polish.

To apply TO as the wetting agent and using 600 grit paper may just be to coarse and end up stripping layers of stain off or thinning it down as using dry 0000 steel wool can do the same thing if not careful.

For Builds #3 & #4 I brushed initial TO coat on one as I was nervous that ragging would cause issues with colour potentially bleeding and ragged the other. Main difference I have noted is that on the one ragged straight up seems to need pore & grain filling, if I can be bothered, as being ash it has helped to accentuate the grain even more. Will wet sand starting with 4000 micro mesh pad on the weekend on both to see if that helps with the small amount of levelling required.

Short answer, best to wet sand after 4-6 coats of TO as it goes on very thin and too coarse a grit will strip it back in no time.

[Bluesmartyboy]

So......First two coats of Naughty oil have been applied and wow..........The Colour.....

Couldn't wait to try a mock build of sorts to check on the colour contrast with the hardware and the pick guard / pup surrounds.....Still can't decide if the black guard and surrounds makes the guitar look to dark and maybe i should source a cream set as an option....especially seeing that the binding is Cream / White...

finished the headstock and have applied TO to that too....any way here are the pictures...

[Muzza]

Spectacular. I'm really liking all the Tru Oil finished guitars.

BTW, I edited my post above as I found the YouTube video I got the idea from, and he uses 1200 grit, not 600 grit.

I like the idea of using 0000 wool too.

[Dedman]

Beautiful!

[Fuzzbeard]

I like the black pick guard but i think I would go no pick guard

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[FrankenWashie]

I'm with Fuzzbeard, drop the GOPP (Grain obscuring plastic part), that top is too pretty to hide behind a pick guard mate.

[Muzza]

+2
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[wokkaboy]

Hey Bluesy,
no pickguard for sure, don't hide that beautiful quilted maple.
Looks like you haven't cleaned up the binding stiill has a fair bit of stain on it. The binding will pop much more with a clean cream edge so I'd clean that up before any more TO coats. I carefully use a small piece of fine steel wool
You seem to be moving fast on the build, rule #1 is don't rush it to get it finished and plugged in. slower build will give you much better results