Waz, I saw a doco on Japanese temple builders, they plane the timber so smooth that its actually water proof. So I'd say you are spot on with your theory.
Waz, I saw a doco on Japanese temple builders, they plane the timber so smooth that its actually water proof. So I'd say you are spot on with your theory.
Build 19 PSH-1 Kustom
Build 18 HB-4S Kustom
Build 17 WL-1 Kustom
Build 16 TL-1TB Kustom
Build 15 PBG-2-
Build 14 FTD-1
Build 13 RD-1 Kustom
Build 12 DM-1S
Build 11 MKA-2 -
Build 10 Basic strat
Build 9 JM Kustom
Build 8 FV-1G
Build 7 ES-2V
Build 6- Community prototype
Build 5 LP-1LQ
Build 4 ES-5V
Build 3 JR-1
Build 2 GD-1
Build 1 TLA-1
Spot on Woks as that is exactly what I did with both the neck and flame top as I was paranoid about sanding through the paper thin cap and the necks arrive quite smooth straight out of the box.
Once half a dozen or more clear coats were done was when I started the ultra fine wet sanding and highly recommend such to help achieve depth of colour on the neck.
Also, for the flame popping I used cyan inkjet printer ink mixed 50:50 with water, left 24 hours to dry and then used a damp rag to wipe off as much of the ink as possible before applying the second coat. Surprised at how dark that stuff is out of the bottle and had to dilute it to get the lighter colour and by using this method saved heaps of time by not having to dry sand the body anywhere near as much.
I see plenty of guys doing the black ink pad trick and then dry sand to pop the grain and this hint could save them plenty of time and effort.
Sounds right as when using a timber with very tight grain it doesn't take much effort to bring it up like glass. 30 odd years ago when doing the repair on my original Ibanez Explorer I went nuts with the super fine wet and dry. It had a maple neck, Korina body and it was impossible to match the timber so had to paint in a solid colour to cover the repair. Chose Black Gloss which meant a super smooth and shiny surface was required and I reckon it could have repelled water it was that smooth.
Cheers Simpleone89.
It is funny how you envisage things in your mind yet they come out slightly different. Normally maple and basswood look similar in colour yet when I finally post some better photos you will see darker parts on the hard outer edges, particularly near rear strap button and then a marbling marine greeny blue shade on the back. Gives it a unique character and quite pleased with the unexpected outcome.
Finally got this thing wired up with the 4 way switch mod only to discover I had the switch upside down as the bridge PUP was not operating on it's own. DOH!!!
Unhooked all the solder joints and did it again and thankfully got all the 4 sounds I was after being Bridge, Bridge & Neck in Parallel, Neck, the Bridge & Neck in series and as they say the last position does in fact sound like a neck position Humbucker.
Only bummer was a bit of buzzing therefore the Shielding Paint did not work as well on this build and had to go to the big green shed to buy myself some of this stuff. As I had run out of daylight/energy/inspiration......I think you get the point, the snail tape will be done on my next day off work and just hope it does the trick.
Yep I use the same tape it works a treat
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Current Projects
#Planning 5 String Bass
It keeps the slugs off your guitar too...
first build PRS-1TS in progress...
http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=4937
second build PRS-1Q in progress...
http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=4956