My first pitbull, IB-5 five string bass.

[Brendan]

You may also have some fun recessing the plate - I found mine very close to the edge, so have had lots of fun getting it consistent. Just realised that I've not started a thread on that one. Need to get some photos together for it, so will do so in the next few days (when I can get back into the shed).

[Tindrrel]

I'm having second thoughts about recessing the plate.

I note that the IB-5 builds I can find in the forums all have a diamond shaped cover. Mine is more kidney bean.

I'm concerned that if I want to put a preamp in later I won't have room for the boards and 9V battery if I recess the cover.

That and the only tool I've got I could do it with is a dremel with the cutting attachment (the one for cutting holes in drywall, it can be used as a hack router). Practiced a bit on an offcut, but still not sure I can do a one-take on the real thing.

[Tindrrel]

Having read the posts here on here about positioning a bridge, all I could find anyway - I still wasn't quite sure about it. Reading the build guide on stewmac helped a little, but raised more questions.

DB's post seems specific to the PB-4, it has a measurement to the edge of the bridge, not the saddles.

Stewmac say to position the highest (pitch) string saddle near the end of it's run (shortest string length) and position that saddle at the scale length. Theory being that saddle will never have to go less than the scale length, they will only have to move back as the strings get thicker.

This perhaps explains why the two highest pitch string saddles on the supplied bridge have longer screws - every other saddle will be further back.

I'm concerned though, that if I position the highest pitch string saddles at their full extent and then mount that at the scale length that the shorter saddle screws for the thicker strings might end up being too short.

In any case, today I've drilled the holes in the neck for the neck bolts, truss rod cover and machine heads.

Does anyone put machine heads, neck and bridge on and actually check intonation before doing all the sanding and finishing?

[gavinturner]

Looks like a beautiful piece of wood you have there! This is going to be a beautiful bass once the bridge position is sorted out. Following this build with interest!

cheers,
Gav.

[Tindrrel]

I think the bridge position is sorted.
(My series of measurements and re-measurements never quite getting the same result and eventually realising it could have something to do with the bridge rocking on a lump on the body http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=3698 and the very tolerent suggestions from other members.)

It's possible I have a wider bridge than earlier kits, but I'll go with what I've got as the string alignment seems to compare well with other basses I have - that and most other bridges I can find out there are even wider...

[Tindrrel]

So I've drilled the holes for the bridge screws.


All happy now.

I clamped the neck and ran the strings and although the B string "looks" close to the edge, it doesn't really vary as it goes down the neck from the distance to the edge at the nut. I think it'll be ok.

I've ordered a dingobass upgrade bone nut and some sprague caps. Still umming and erring about upgrading the pots as well. I'm a little scared of enlarging the pots holes from their current 8mm to the 10mm needed for the Bourns pots.

I'm pretty convinced I'll never be able to put full size pots in, such as come with a preamp system. The shape of the cavity puts the holes too close to the edge:



I've filed the inside of the jack hole so the jack slides in firmly. Previously it got stuck part way.

I think I'll be doing something to recess the jack a little.

Pushed all the way in, the jack doesn't shape to the curve of the body - of course.

A bit of sanding (dremel?) should make a slightly leveled area that the jack rim can sit more or less flush against.

[stan]

you could oversize the hole and make it really smooth (think of PRS inset tone/volume knobs) and inset the jack into the body a bit...

[stan]

Amazed guitar is amazed!

[Tindrrel]

you could oversize the hole and make it really smooth (think of PRS inset tone/volume knobs) and inset the jack into the body a bit...

Trying to work out what sort of tool I'd used to do that given the curve of the body. Perhaps a hole saw, then chisel out to create a level circular recess.

(sounds better than just drawing a circle around the jack and reaching in with the dremel sanding bit.)

[stan]

maybe something like this: