There's about one centimetre difference between the length of the wires on the two pups.
What you did remind me to do is check that the bridge pup wire is long enough to reach the control cavity. There's plenty of length there, even running with the wire at the opposite end of the pup cavity to the cable hole - so it doesn't have to make a right angle turn directly under the pup.
Yep as it should be - few things worse than being 10mm short on a wire...
http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=3048 - under my name - only because I cut it all out and put it in as a separate thread. DB's work.
It also reminds me that I hoped to recess the control cavity cover. I should do that before I get into the sanding too.
And look into sourcing a replacement bit of perspex that doesn't have the edges already bevelled.
Which puts me back to sourcing parts, as I shouldn't route the recess until I have the replacement perspex, in case it's a different thickness.
One thing to be careful about when changing bridges on the PitBull gear is that the guitars are built for the bridges that they come with. Generally not a major issue, but if you end up with a bridge that's lowest configuration is still higher than the kit one, you can end up with a horrible action - or needing to do some more work like recess the bridge or shim the neck to get the strings down. I swapped out a Jazz bass bridge for a high mass bridge (see it here http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...?t=2174&page=3) - and needed to recess the bridge to get it playable.
Agreed. Check out Tim's Cthulu build - from memory he ended up using some green see through perspex - end result was pretty cool...
Remembered I had a sheet of black 2mm perspex stashed already.
Time to get out the off cuts and practice routing a recessed shape. Tomorrow, anyway.