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Thread: My first pitbull, IB-5 five string bass.

  1. #11
    Moderator Brendan's Avatar
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    Predrill as many as you can before sanding, etc - minimises chances of damage to the finish later on. BTW - welcome along - I'm half way through sanding my IB-5 - have stopped to get some work done on a JBA-4M.

  2. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by Brendan View Post
    Other thing to look for is the length of wire - if they're both pretty much the same, longer wire neck pup as it will give you more room to move.
    There's about one centimetre difference between the length of the wires on the two pups.

    What you did remind me to do is check that the bridge pup wire is long enough to reach the control cavity. There's plenty of length there, even running with the wire at the opposite end of the pup cavity to the cable hole - so it doesn't have to make a right angle turn directly under the pup.

  3. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by Brendan View Post
    Predrill as many as you can before sanding, etc - minimises chances of damage to the finish later on.
    I guess that makes the decision about the bridge. The included one seems fairly high mass. I briefly thought about a Badass V, but they seem to be rare and expensive - and I don't want it to delay having fun building this thing.

    Quote Originally Posted by Brendan View Post
    BTW - welcome along - I'm half way through sanding my IB-5 - have stopped to get some work done on a JBA-4M.
    Thanks!

  4. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by Brendan View Post
    Tindrrel - that's the one - I've consolidated it and put it in a separate thread to make it easier to find. I use it each time I build a hardtail.
    Funny that I found the original bits instead of the consolidated one though. Got a direct link?

  5. #15
    Moderator Brendan's Avatar
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    Yep as it should be - few things worse than being 10mm short on a wire...

  6. #16
    Moderator Brendan's Avatar
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    http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=3048 - under my name - only because I cut it all out and put it in as a separate thread. DB's work.

  7. #17
    It also reminds me that I hoped to recess the control cavity cover. I should do that before I get into the sanding too.

    And look into sourcing a replacement bit of perspex that doesn't have the edges already bevelled.

    Which puts me back to sourcing parts, as I shouldn't route the recess until I have the replacement perspex, in case it's a different thickness.

  8. #18
    Moderator Brendan's Avatar
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    One thing to be careful about when changing bridges on the PitBull gear is that the guitars are built for the bridges that they come with. Generally not a major issue, but if you end up with a bridge that's lowest configuration is still higher than the kit one, you can end up with a horrible action - or needing to do some more work like recess the bridge or shim the neck to get the strings down. I swapped out a Jazz bass bridge for a high mass bridge (see it here http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...?t=2174&page=3) - and needed to recess the bridge to get it playable.

  9. #19
    Moderator Brendan's Avatar
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    Agreed. Check out Tim's Cthulu build - from memory he ended up using some green see through perspex - end result was pretty cool...

  10. #20
    Remembered I had a sheet of black 2mm perspex stashed already.

    Time to get out the off cuts and practice routing a recessed shape. Tomorrow, anyway.

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