So just keep the paper from moving and squish it as much as possible to transfer, then let it dry overnight and then clear over it?
So just keep the paper from moving and squish it as much as possible to transfer, then let it dry overnight and then clear over it?
Yeah mate. When I tape it make sure it's nice and tight so there is no chance the paper can move even a fraction of a mm or it'll smudge and look shite. Then dry over night, or for at least a few hours and get your clear on. I've only used this technique on bare unsealed wood, it won't work on a sealed wood I don't think. Next test is to see if the transfer works over a stain or dye.
Yeah I'm interested to see if it will work over DT....
I don't see why it wouldn't work over the stain or intensifying coats. Just as long as the ink has something to soak in to.
Interested in this idea. Was wondering if anyone who tried it could fill in some gaps for me.
What sort of printer do you use? Regular inkjet?
Do you need to do the application immediately after printing? Is that how come it is still transferrable?
Anyone tried it on stain or applied stain after transfer?
- Sam
IB-5 - was finished, considering re-finishing body
IB-6S - done.
JR-1M - dressing frets and electronics build
ST-1 - still wondering how to install a tremelo
Telebass - non-PBG from parts buiild - painting body
This is how I put the logo design on my headstock. I did some poking around, and one site had a great suggestion about taking label paper and taking all the labels off, and printing on the non-stick side of the paper. The label backing is nice and thick and runs through the printer really well. Got to work fast because it only transfers wet ink. Practice on some scrap wood first. Easy to smudge. I put mine on top of the chemical wash, and it came through fine. It is kind of light. I just used it as a guide for painting over it. I set my print settings for draft so it would be really light but you might want to set it for high-quality if you are doing a complete transfer, so you get more ink.
Another way is to do it is with waterslide decal paper and run it through a laser printer.
That's what I'm going to do with my champagne gecko build (TL1)
Bruce
This is cool. Might be exactly what I need! Transferring on the bare wood seems to give that old faded look. I wonder if the result would be richer in color on primed wood. Might be a bit tricky to avoid smudging.
Excellent idea to use it as a guide for paint.
Going to resurrect this older thread with another option.
Not sure how readily available these products are here in Australia, but I would imagine art supply shops may have something similar for someone to experiment with.
Last edited by Zandit75; 23-05-2016 at 04:12 PM.
Acoustics:
1995 Maton EM725C - Solid 'A' Spruce Top, QLD Walnut B&S, AP5 Pickup
2015 Ibanez AEL108MD-NT - Laminated Spruce top, Laminated Mahogany B&S, Fishman Sonicore Pickup
Electrics:
Pitbull LP-1S - http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=5745
Carsen Superstrat Rebuild - http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=6284
Builds in Progress:
Silent Guitar Semi-Scratch Build - http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=6809