Fixing a dirty finish

[fatmunkey]

Hey guys, I've been slowly working on a TL-1 in my spare time, and got the Dingotone Karajini Red kit for it. Sanded the body well down to 400 grit, made sure it was nice and smooth. Stain and intensifying coats went on mostly without drama, with the exception of an intensifying coat that I got grit on due to a dust storm (I live in western NSW). With the clear coat, I got two on without drama. At this point, I should mention I've been leaving it a week between coats right the way through, because i really only have time to look in on it on a Sunday arvo. The clear was starting to build, and then the last coat went all splotchy; heavy and thick in some parts, non existent in others. And here's the thing, I make sure I use thin coats, applied according to the video with a small cloth, and I make sure I use light to ensure a complete coat (i.e. it's all wet and glossy looking). So today I hit the shed, 0000 steel wooled the blotches, and the whole thing went hazy, and then reapplied a thin coat just to the front of the body to see what happens.

A couple questions: is this the right way of going about this repair, and if I've completely messed it up where should I go from here? I've got a sander, so could take the whole finish off pretty easily and resand ready to go again, but maybe I would just solid coat it this time. Help me, oh havers of wisdom!

PS: my only previous wood finishing experience is the off-brand ES335 I built last year, and I finished that in Tru-Oil.

[stan]

yes mate, just sand it back a little and reapply and see how you go. Considering where you live, it might pay to have a drying cupboard or some other safe place to let it dry/cure.
Take care when sanding the cap too much, as they are pretty thin: you dont want to go through.
Shake Dingo tone well before use, also keep the cap on as much as possible to prevent drying, even when applying.

[fatmunkey]

Thanks Stan. I now open, pour, close. Lesson learnt

If I were to look at solid colouring, maybe not this build but on another future one, do you have any recommendations there? I've read that the Behlen nitro rattle cans are good, but they only have a couple colours. Might also be worth mentioning that I always use overdrive/distortion, so pure bell tones aren't required.

[dingobass]

Out of curiosity, can you remember what the weather was like on the day you applied the coat that went weird?
temperatures over 35 c may cause the finish to tack off really fast, end result could be a splotchy and uneven coat.
I ask this so I can make adjustments to the finish if needs be..

[stan]

Thanks Stan. I now open, pour, close. Lesson learnt

If I were to look at solid colouring, maybe not this build but on another future one, do you have any recommendations there? I've read that the Behlen nitro rattle cans are good, but they only have a couple colours. Might also be worth mentioning that I always use overdrive/distortion, so pure bell tones aren't required.

I hear the Behlen stuff is good, but have only used their clear.
I've used artists ink with good results (see my sisters LP build thread)
Auto paint for a solid finish works well, dont forget to undercoat. I top coat with acrylic clear or wipe on poly. People have had good results with Tru Oil as a clear finish.

Consider satin and matte finishes for when you want to see the grain patterns with translucent finishes.

As with all things, consider the toxicity of the finish that you are applying. Always have good ventilation and breathing protection.

DB's Dingotone was developed to provide nice finishes with more natural products. DB can tell you much more about them and give you great support

[fatmunkey]

hey DB: yep, it was probably a 40 degree day. And then two days later we had a massive storm that resulted in 100% humidity for around 24 hours. It was probably this combination that killed it.

Stan: Thanks for the info. With auto paint, are you just using spray cans from supersheep? And undercoating grey primer? My biggest concern is the toxicity as the wife and dog both use the garage as a thoroughfare, but I could lock them out for a day or so to allow the nasties to settle. The other thought was modifying one of these: http://www.ikea.com/au/en/catalog/products/20181113/ as a mobile spray booth, spray outside then store it in the little tool shed down the back (they're pretty cheap at bigW or greenshed).

[dingobass]

Ahhhhh... Yep, over 35 and things go pearshaped.. Had this happen to another customer who lives in Western NSW, so your experience confirms my theory.
The humidity a few days after the heat shouldnt have too much bearing on the finish, however had it been that humid when applying you could have problems as well.

Thanks for the info, and if you run out of finish coat flick me an email and I will send more out to you free of charge.

[bargeloobs]

Ahhhhh... Yep, over 35 and things go pearshaped.. Had this happen to another customer who lives in Western NSW, so your experience confirms my theory.
The humidity a few days after the heat shouldnt have too much bearing on the finish, however had it been that humid when applying you could have problems as well.

Thanks for the info, and if you run out of finish coat flick me an email and I will send more out to you free of charge.

For what it's worth we had some really warm days when I had my little DT mishap too, it was well into the 40's so probably more like 50 in the shed.

[stan]

hey DB: yep, it was probably a 40 degree day. And then two days later we had a massive storm that resulted in 100% humidity for around 24 hours. It was probably this combination that killed it.

Stan: Thanks for the info. With auto paint, are you just using spray cans from supersheep? And undercoating grey primer? My biggest concern is the toxicity as the wife and dog both use the garage as a thoroughfare, but I could lock them out for a day or so to allow the nasties to settle. The other thought was modifying one of these: http://www.ikea.com/au/en/catalog/products/20181113/ as a mobile spray booth, spray outside then store it in the little tool shed down the back (they're pretty cheap at bigW or greenshed).

I get mine from an automotive paint specialist, but alot of their premixed stuff is similar to the auto parts traders stuff. Paint, like all things: you get what you pay for.
I use high build auto primer from a can, so yes: straight onto the timber and it works a treat. I use upol and it's about $18 a can, pricey but very good.

With all paints, and most other finishes, build up in light coats. 3 fine ones are always better than 1 thick one. Helps curing. With colour, as soon as it is even an coverage is complete - you have enough, doesnt have to be thick. Always clear over the top to protect. That can be thicker if you want, but still built with thin coats.

Acrylic paints take quite a while to cure and even if the top is hard, they can be soft underneath, them them plenty of time - weeks, to fully cure.

They hang about in the air a fair bit as well, and a thoroughfare is no place for spray paint - your outdoors idea is a good one.

[Fretworn]

My own experience is hot and humid (like the whole of this Summer in Sydney) don't seem to agree with DT top-coat. Next guitar will be over winter, so we'll see how that works out.