Was installing the scratchplate and this happened. I pre-drilled the hole with a 1.5mm bit, and was using a hand-driven ratchet screwdriver to drive the screw in, and the head of the screw twisted off. Any hints on recovering from this without doing a lot of damage?
Ouch! I feel your pain Glenn
Stewmac have a great tool for removing broken screws, (Guitar screw rescue kit) it has four bits. A small hole saw to remove the broken screw, a drill bit, plug cutter and drill guide.
This is a very handy tool that is well worth the investment of $75.58.
There is always a workaround for glitches, mistakes and other Guitar building gremlins.....
Glenn - DB has put up a how to do tute here for just this occasion.: http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au...ead.php?t=2742.
That said - unless you have the StewMac kit, it could be a bit of a pain to remove without doing a bit of damage to that fine colour you've got. Hence...
Option #2 and this will get me to the naughty room for sure. Drop of CA glue on the screw head and glue it back on to the rest of the screw. Given it's one of a dozen or so pickguard screws, it's not going to be carrying a lot of weight. You will want to be careful as you don't want to superglue the pickguard on. You will need to be eternally vigilant though that a simple knock doesn't leave you with needing to fix the issue months later without the head to the screw.
Option #3 - cheaper than the StewMac kit - new pickguard with no holes drilled - make sure you don't overlap the hole and you should be right. It looks like there isn't much of the old screw that is sticking out from the body so it looks like it could be done.
Not sure if any of these are what you are looking for. I know #2 & 3 don't actually fix the problem, but I understand that $75 + postage is a lot to fix a single screw in a single guitar. Others may also have similar / better solutions.
Stewmac also sell a handy screw driver set for around $40, includes all the guitar screw driver, allan key, etc. bits you will ever need plus bits to 'pre-drill' the position of the screw. i find this tool so invaluable that I bought a second set. originally a DB recommendation too!
I think that it is important to understand that when using screws that forcing a screw into wood creates friction and the metal screws heat up to high temperatures very quickly making the screw susceptible to snapping as it did in this case. Rule of thumb is to measure the diameter of the screw and use a (drill) bit that is 2/3rd's of the screws diameter to bore your hole. It is also prudent to rub a little candle wax over the screw before inserting it into the wood to reduce friction.
All sensible suggestions. Gavin, I do pre-drill on a roughly 2/3 diameter rule of thumb, but the only screws I've waxed have been those long important ones that attach the neck to the body! I honestly thought I had my bases covered ...
Tonight I'll take the scratchplate back off and investigate whether we have any of the shaft protruding. If so, I should be able to grasp that bugger with some pliers or multigrips and, with some carefully administered elbow-grease, retrieve it. If not, I think I'll push on and resolve this later. The Minister for War and Finance will not look kindly upon an investment of the scale required for the specialised retrieval kit at the moment. :-(
Brendan’s idea of gluing the head on isn’t a bad one.
I would rough the under side of the head and CA glue it to the pickguard.. it wont come off again in a hurry
There is always a workaround for glitches, mistakes and other Guitar building gremlins.....
might be an easier fix Glenn as DB suggested. Sure the pickguard should remain flat with one missing screw, looks like its on the bass side of the tremelo
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If you're desperate to fix it and can't pursue the other options, here's what I would try... but test it on some scrap first. Drill a hole about the diameter (or slightly larger) of the broken screw hard up against it on the inboard side. Then use an awl or screwdriver etc to pry/lever the broken stub sideways to the new hole to release it and get it out. Mix some sawdust with your blue stain and when dry mix in a touch of Titebond and work it into a firm putty, hopefully matching the body colour, and plug the hole (should have about 5mins working time with the glue). If the mix is firm enough you should be able push it in flush with the surface and not need to sand. Give it 24hrs, drill your new hole, and you should be good to go. I haven't tried this, so I'd test it on some scrap wood first (screw in a small screw, cut the head off and give it a try). Caveat emptor.
Scott.
Interesting idea Weirdy. I was thinking of something similar.
So, there was some shaft visible but I just haven't been able to shift it. I set that idea aside for the evening and moved on to installing the machine heads on the headstock. Pre-drilled, correct depth marked on the bit, waxed those teeny little screws, and the heads of two of THOSE fricken screws twisted off. I was just about ready to throw the whole thing into the neighbour's skip. I honestly don't know how I'm going to fix this. The screw recovery kit is starting to look good, but it's not happening this year. Might have to put the whole project on hold till next year. To think, I thought I was going to be playing it this weekend. So disappointed.
Have you recently been exposed to gamma rays?
One screw is bad, but three... that's just cruel. I feel for you mate. I guess your options are pretty much the same as before, just don't do anything rash while you're angry... like I would.
Last edited by WeirdBits; 27-11-2014 at 06:44 PM.
Scott.
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