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Thread: Help! Busted screw (grumble)

  1. #21
    Mentor AJ's Avatar
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    ** One thing to note ---- These little screws are generally cheap rolled metal threads (stamped) and any over tourqing/ tightening will break the little blighters, especially when they heat up due to friction when inserting them. Also, soap is an alternative lubricant that can be used on the thread before inserting ..
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  2. #22
    Moderator Brendan's Avatar
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    +1 for the use of soap - my old woodwork teacher showed me how to do it that way and have used it ever since.

  3. #23
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    If you don't want to get the kit you could make a drill guide up. For scratch plate cut ply template as per scratch plate with a steel drill guide over broken screw, drill guide will stop bit wandering. Because of the small size and easy out or screw extractor not available i have in the past shaped a small Allen key to suit. Once the centre is relieved by drilling the shaped key will bite into the hole and you have a handle already on it. The same goes for the tuner screws just a different guide set up. Cost in materials is small. Left handed drill bits also work well in this situation as once drilled so far bit tends to bite and the screw wind out. Any question on a jig I would be happy to help with a drawing or even make one if you want to pay postage(not sure where you are?) let me know if I can help
    Cheers and happy new year

  4. #24
    GAStronomist DrNomis_44's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WeirdBits View Post
    If you're desperate to fix it and can't pursue the other options, here's what I would try... but test it on some scrap first. Drill a hole about the diameter (or slightly larger) of the broken screw hard up against it on the inboard side. Then use an awl or screwdriver etc to pry/lever the broken stub sideways to the new hole to release it and get it out. Mix some sawdust with your blue stain and when dry mix in a touch of Titebond and work it into a firm putty, hopefully matching the body colour, and plug the hole (should have about 5mins working time with the glue). If the mix is firm enough you should be able push it in flush with the surface and not need to sand. Give it 24hrs, drill your new hole, and you should be good to go. I haven't tried this, so I'd test it on some scrap wood first (screw in a small screw, cut the head off and give it a try). Caveat emptor.
    @ WeirdBits.

    I just gave this idea a try since I had a guitar neck with a screw in it that I couldn't remove due to the head of the screw breaking off, I managed to remove the screw but instead of using sawdust, I used a piece of 8mm wooden doweling I had lying around, the method does seem to work, I glued the piece of doweling in place with some PVA glue then cut off the excess flush with the back of the headstock.
    Last edited by DrNomis_44; 11-01-2015 at 07:19 PM.

  5. #25
    Overlord of Music WeirdBits's Avatar
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    Glad it worked out for you.
    Scott.

  6. #26
    Overlord of Music kimball492's Avatar
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    Give these a try
    Heat it up w/a soldering iron & let it cool down will come right out or I cut a slot in the top with a dremal tool and ease it out with a screw driver.
    Last edited by kimball492; 09-05-2016 at 02:05 AM.

  7. #27
    Overlord of Music andrewdosborne's Avatar
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    I'll have to remember those tips kimball, may come in handy (hopefully not..)....
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  8. #28
    Overlord of Music kimball492's Avatar
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    Yeah I hope you never need them Andrew

  9. #29
    GAStronomist DrNomis_44's Avatar
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    I'm definitely going to have to invest in the Stewmac screw-extractor kit one day, maybe this year.

  10. #30
    I thing i do when screwing in a screw to wood or metal is to drill a pilot hole then put the screw in 1 turn, then back it out 1/2 a turn, then screw it another full turn, then out 1/2 a turn. Just keep going over and over until its in. Stops it binding up if theres any material in the hole.

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