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Thread: MMB-4 Bass Build

  1. #11
    Member Peter H's Avatar
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    Yes it is. It's a Peavey Dyna Bass I bought back in 1991
    Peter H

  2. #12
    Overlord of Music Fretworn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter H View Post
    .... I run a Ampeg Fridge 8x10....
    How's your back?

  3. #13
    GAStronomist wokkaboy's Avatar
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    don't tell me your amp is one of these Poita ? I'd hate to be your neighbours ! hahah

    http://www.ampeg.com/products/classic/svt810e/
    Current Builds and status
    scratch end grain pine tele - first clear coat on !
    JBA-4 - assembled - final tweaks
    Telemonster double scale tele - finish tobacco burst on body and sand neck

    Completed builds
    scratch oak.rose gum Jazzmaster - assembled needs setup
    MK-2 Mosrite - assembled - play in
    Ash tele with Baritone neck - neck pup wiring tweaks and play in

  4. #14
    Overlord of Music Fretworn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wokkaboy View Post
    so Poita you going to cut the plate for the 2nd bucker or use pup rings for this build ?
    If the pickup routes are nice and clean you could probably get away with neither pickguard or pickup rings (which I don't think they make of MM style 'buckers.

  5. #15
    Member Peter H's Avatar
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    Hi All,

    I need a second opinion? I’ve got the colour on the body, going to do the clear this weekend. I’ve been waiting on a three way switch to arrived which it did today. The problem is that when I routed out the area to take the switch it is now to small so I need to route out some more. I’m thinking it would be best to do this in three weeks once the clear has harden and not do it before I put the clear on because that would probably mark the colour coat. Am I on the right track thinking this.
    Peter H

  6. #16
    Member Peter H's Avatar
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    My back is fine. I've used this rig for 20years and tried a lot of different bass rigs and none of them come close. When I play I never have to worry about my sound it's just rock solid. So a bit of exercise to bump in and out is worth it.
    Peter H

  7. #17
    Overlord of Music WeirdBits's Avatar
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    I guess it'll depend on your colour coat, how much you have to rout out, and your personal preference. I prefer to make alterations/adjustments as early in the process as I can, that way I have more options if something goes wrong. And, if something does go awry, it's probably going to be a lot easier to fix a colour coat than a clear coat over colour (depending on what you used). Something like a low tack masking tape may be enough to protect the colour perhaps? I've also found cork-backed placemats can be useful to protect a surface while routing. Maybe you could just pare out the rout a bit with a sharp chisel rather than having to use a router again? But, if you have a fragile/complicated colour coat and you're confident about routing once the hard clear is on then that may be the better option.
    Scott.

  8. #18
    Member Peter H's Avatar
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    Thanks for the advice WeirdBits. The paint is fragile so I think I'll wait until the clear is hard. I don't have a problem with routing.
    Peter H

  9. #19
    Member Peter H's Avatar
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    Need some help

    I need some help with paint finish. I've notice there are some cracks in the clear coat around the machine head holes (see image) I’ve got no idea how this happen I notice this after I wet sanded and polish and now it looks like it’s flaking a bit. Should I re gloss the head stock again?Click image for larger version. 

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    Peter H

  10. #20
    Overlord of Music WeirdBits's Avatar
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    Wet sanding seep perhaps? What clear are you using, how was it applied, how many coats, and how was the surface prepared before and between coats?
    Scott.

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