I'm certainly no expert when it comes to wiring but this thread seems like it fast becoming a comprehensive tele/esquire wiring resource so I thought I may as well drop this diagram I stumbled across. I'm planning on using on my next build.
I'm certainly no expert when it comes to wiring but this thread seems like it fast becoming a comprehensive tele/esquire wiring resource so I thought I may as well drop this diagram I stumbled across. I'm planning on using on my next build.
I think there needs to be more threads like this, I also think there is a potential wiring book in the making too!
Gavmeister
nice thread, some great info and diagrams Weirdy
Current Builds and status
scratch end grain pine tele - first clear coat on !
JBA-4 - assembled - final tweaks
Telemonster double scale tele - finish tobacco burst on body and sand neck
Completed builds
scratch oak.rose gum Jazzmaster - assembled needs setup
MK-2 Mosrite - assembled - play in
Ash tele with Baritone neck - neck pup wiring tweaks and play in
Don't worry Lawry, there's a special setting just for you.Quote from lawry on August 11, 2014, 04:56
...would I need in-service training first?
Scott.
hahahahaha love your humour Weirdy, is there a suitable switch for amateur wiring people like me ?
Current Builds and status
scratch end grain pine tele - first clear coat on !
JBA-4 - assembled - final tweaks
Telemonster double scale tele - finish tobacco burst on body and sand neck
Completed builds
scratch oak.rose gum Jazzmaster - assembled needs setup
MK-2 Mosrite - assembled - play in
Ash tele with Baritone neck - neck pup wiring tweaks and play in
Amazing thread Wierdy, I will definitely be using one of these wiring schemes in the near future! Thanks for all your efforts.
cheers,
Gav.
--
Build #01: BC-1
Build #02: ST-1
Build #03: JR-1DC
Build #04: ES-2V
Build #05: ESB-4 (GOTM July 2014)
Build #06: RC-1
Build #07: MK-2
Build #08: TLA-1
Build #09: JR-1DC
Build #0A: LPA-1
Build #0B: STA-1 (GOTM April 2015)
Build #0C: MKA-2
Build #0D: LP-1M
Build #0E: JB-1
Build #0F: FS-1
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https://www.facebook.com/firescreek.guitars/
http://www.guitarkitbuilder.blogspot.com.au/
Where do I get me one of them thar sweetches?/<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/Quote from WeirdBits on August 11, 2014, 15:46
Don't worry Lawry, there's a special setting just for you./<\\/p>[]<\\/p>/Quote from lawry on August 11, 2014, 04:56
...would I need in-service training first?
Inspired by Bargey's awesome Esquire DC Special build and the diagram he contributed to this thread, here's a couple of variations on the single Humbucker Esquire layout.
First diagram is just a change in the selection order for the 3-way to put the single coil mode in position 3 (personal preference):
1. Series, 2. Parallel, 3. Single (Split)
The tone variation with this option may be too insignificant to be worth it... but by using a 4-way Tele switch you can add the choice between either coil:
1. Series, 2. Parallel, 3. Single coil (South), 4. Single coil (North)
The cap on the diagrams is shown as a 0.05uF, but with a Humbucker you'll probably want a standard 0.022uF. Use at your own risk, I take no responsibility for my incompetence
Scott.
Now that's interesting Weirdy, what sort of tone variance could one expect between north and south and would it be clearly audible? (you'll have to excuse my electronics ignorance)If it's going to be a noticeable difference I'd definitely give it a try. I'm glad you mentioned the capacitor thing too, I was going to use an orange drop (0.047uF) I had laying around but would you recommend I go with a 0.022uF instead?
I guess it will depend on your ears on both counts. The tone difference between the screw and slug coils is likely to be minor at best, it's more their relative position that could have an impact. Typically, the closer to the bridge the more treble and bite you get but also possibly more harshness. Depending on the overall tone of the guitar and the position of the pickup the couple of cm's difference in the coil positions may have a worthwhile effect... then again, it may not. As for cap, the original diagram was for a Tele-specific style humbucker in a Tele-style bridge so it may have needed a 0.047/0.05uF cap, whereas you would normally use an 0.022uF cap with a humbucker. So, again it will depend on how your pickup sounds in your specific build. If it turns out to be a little harsh or trebly you may want to go with a 0.047 to remove a few more highs but it could get muddy, so a 0.022 may be safer to start with.
If it was me, I'd install just the pickup and then use some clip leads to try the different coil combo's to work out which are worthwhile (green-red pair for south, white-black pair for north etc), then install the control plate with a 0.022 cap and only if it's too bright switch to a 0.047. Also, 500K pots help humbuckers keep some brightness whereas 250K pots will reduce it slightly.
Scott.