Both full-tool and -DIY-tool versions of this tutorial are very good to have on hand. I'll be applying the DIY-tool version to the Red Menace project in the coming week or so. Credit will be paid where due!
Both full-tool and -DIY-tool versions of this tutorial are very good to have on hand. I'll be applying the DIY-tool version to the Red Menace project in the coming week or so. Credit will be paid where due!
a little while ago I spent £33 on a tool which enables me to level frets accurately under string tension, a poor mans plek machine if you like. Its the best luthier tool I have , enables super low buzz free action ( lower than most customers prefer). The point is under string tension a neck has a different curve ( a kind of s curve) so being able to actually level under tension is going to deliver better results. OK so the tool is this ( I have no association with these guys )http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TECHNOFRET...item2a113c9eec and it is simple. You don't get a lot for your money, but what you are paying for is dead accurate flat surfaces. Here is what I do. After bolting on neck, checking alignment fitting bridge, I use a nut blank so the strings ( at the top of the neck are a few mm above the frets. I don't cut the nut at this stage apart from a couple of minimal slots to stop the 1st and 6th strings from sliding off the nut but that's it at this stage. OK, string up ( don't worry about crap action), leave a for a couple of days for neck to settle under tension.
OK , so now I lay the guitar on a worktop ( use something the same thickness as the neck plate as a spacer) so its level and pop a clamp on the body ( near edge of body behind the bridge) ( I will take a pic next time I do it) , then I use spacers under the machine heads until after clamping down the headstock, the neck is perfectly straight. Now you know when it is perfectly straight using the three small alloy blocks ( one goes behind first fret , one between 8th 9 th frets , one after 15th ) and straight edge supplied with the tool. So you now have guitar securely clamped, neck is perfectly straight under string tension and the strings are 2-3mm above the frets making it easy to get the sanding bar under them to level . This sanding bar is basic 3 sided box section , but its accurately flat ( needs to be ) and has 400 grit / 600 grit paper stuck on it. Mark frets with a nobo marker pen to help you see when you have taken something off each fret so you have perfectly level frets under string tension. Slide the sanding under each string in turn and sand , you don't need much movement. It is interesting how most necks seem to need the most taking off 15th to 18th frets under the 2nd third strings to catch the 10th 12th frets , exactly where you don't want things fretting out. Once that is done, cut the nut lower, rough set action and check for any buzzing fretting out. I have never had anysince using this tool. It manages about 10 guitars before you need to replace the 400/600 grit strips which cost a few quid. All in all very confident to be able to get the best action possible using this tool and method.
re fret crowing shaping, I do fret ends individually by hand using a £2 triangular needle file that has had each apex sanded smooth so it doesn't mark the fret board. All I use to re crown the frets is a piece of hard maple. Drill down 3 inches (drill size to suit fret size) ,sand off along the drilled hole just to leave a groove not quite as deep as a semicircle). masking tape each side of fret to protect the fretboard and re crown the frets using the groved maple with 600 grit 1000 grit then shine up with tcut ( cutting compound on a piece of cloth wrapped around wood). I will share some pics at some point which will hopefully clarify. chrs Andy Preston
Similar idea to the KATANA Fret Leveller. No idea which is best, but they both look like cool toys erm tools to have.
rob
For a cheap(er) fret crowning tool, I've just tried one of these from ALS (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/261164032...84.m1439.l2649). Just using the replacement burr - the file itself may be OK as well, but I figured for a couple of guitars, this'd do me until I want to go the diamond option. All up ~$19 buck option and seems to work OK. For a grip, I've tried just holding it in my hands or, putting it in the jaws of a small clamp. Follow it up with some sandpaper going through the grits (320, 400, 600, 800 & 0000 steel wool) looks to be going OK.
Current builds:
GPB-4B: https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...548#post184548
Got myself some new toys... errrm.. tools yesterday.
1 Katana under string fret leveller for Bass
1 RectifyMaster Lite under string fret leveller for Guitar
Used the Lite on the Butterscotch Tele today, 15 minutes and all done and dusted
AWESOME!
Where did you get the Rectifymaster from DB?
Sorry, in my excitement I neglected to put the web address up.....
www.rectifymaster.com
Once you have the frets levelled, DB, i guess you have to take the strings off to recrown....did the whole thing take 15 minutes or just the levelling.
Gavmeister