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Thread: Gavmeisters 335 in Blue

  1. #21
    Ahh, I should have read the whole thread...
    Cheers,

    Adam



    adamboyle(at)pitbullguitars.com

  2. #22
    Guest
    Quote from Gavin1393 on February 14, 2013, 16:17
    Quote from adam on February 14, 2013, 15:39
    Gav, we should start shipping our first orders of Wudtone very soon. I'm sure DB could put a little extra Azure Lagoon (n/c) in your order if you want another coat or two...
    Thanks Adam, i'm not sure if putting deep colour over base coat will work? Maybe Andy can confirm? If it will work that would be great!
    Hi Guys, I really like this project. It must be the tease factor of something that looks , "oh not sure" , and then becomes an amazing, head turning guitar. (signets become swans as they say!)

    I want to do one like it.

    To answer. the difference between the deep colour coat and base coat is the concentration of dye. Essentially, when the wood is bare ( and most porous) it will soak up most finish (always depends on the type/ nature of the wood). The higher concentration of dye in the deep colour coat, makes it a bit thinner(so it penetrates,colours better) and this all helps to fix a deeper colour at the start. The other major factor is the preparation of the wood. As mentioned before it really doesn't want sanding to finely, 250 grit is plenty ( maybe even less for something like Black Magic Woman) . After a first deep colour coat, the wood will be less porous, it may still be a little porous so use another deep colour coat, how much it soaks in will be less ( just depends on the wood again). After two/max 3 deep colour coats, you probably want to shift to using base coat and not deep colour coat. The wood is less porous and so you are now really applying colour enriching ( and protection) coats on top of what is already applied. So to help this the base coat is a bit thicker in consistency. This makes it easier to apply a slightly thicker coat which with the dye in the base coat enriches the colour further.

    SO in this case , I think a couple more Azure Lagoon base coats will enrich the depth of the colour to improve (it doesn't need much by the look of it) . Try applying the base coat with a microfiber cloth, this can help to apply a slightly thicker even coating. Not too thick though. The product slow dries, self levels but always, more thin coats. ( with a light rub with fine steel wool to key) is better than less thicker coats. Another tip is to pour out some finish, leave it to thicken a bit ( can't say how long depends on temp etc) , mix to ensure smooth consistency and then apply.

    So in summary , once the dyes are fixed with deep colour coat (when the wood is most porous) . Base coat and its thicker consistency is more able to enrich the colour on top.

    keep us posted, chrs Andy Preston


  3. #23
    Guest
    Quote from Gavin1393 on January 23, 2013, 15:31
    Fourth and final coat, only because I have run out of the Deep colour.....
    Hi Gavin , be nice to see a pic of this with a dark background ( me thinks, it will show the intensity of the colour and how blue is really is better) , all that lush vegetation may well be skewing it a tad turquoise.)

    We tend to put guitars under a skyight ( so daylight from above ) and shoot horizontal with the guitar angled a fair bit. see examples

    eg here of a burst we are doing, this is after 2 blended deep colour coats ( Saffron, Hot Auburn), videos going up here on bursting http://www.wudtone.com/forum/?topic=...t-with-wudtone

    Hope you don't mind me asking but would love to see a similar pic of this guitar.


  4. #24
    Moderator Gavin1393's Avatar
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    Will give the photo a go this weekend.
    http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au/forum/image.php?type=sigpic&userid=1258&dateline=1443806  448Gavmeister

  5. #25
    Enjoying this thread, particularly the detailed input from Andy on applying Wudtone finishes and how to shoot the products. Very much appreciated.

    Also, that is one delicious looking ES, mate. The finished product should be jaw-dropping!

  6. #26
    Moderator Gavin1393's Avatar
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    Quote from GlennGP on February 15, 2013, 06:21
    Enjoying this thread, particularly the detailed input from Andy on applying Wudtone finishes and how to shoot the products. Very much appreciated.

    Also, that is one delicious looking ES, mate. The finished product should be jaw-dropping!

    Thanks Glenn,

    She is a beautiful combination. Colour looks amazing. Since putting on a few coats of the base coat it really shines! Really glad I purchased this kit.
    http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au/forum/image.php?type=sigpic&userid=1258&dateline=1443806  448Gavmeister

  7. #27
    GAStronomist wokkaboy's Avatar
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    Hi Gavin,
    the piece of wood you cut to fit inside the neck/pickup pocket, is that glued in or how does it stay secure when you pick up the guitar ? I have just started an ES and wondered about how to attach the wood handle

    Also Andy from Wudtone I must have read the instructions incorrectly, I've been applying the base coat 1st and then the deep coat, is there a problem with this method ?
    cheers Wokka
    Current Builds and status
    scratch end grain pine tele - first clear coat on !
    JBA-4 - assembled - final tweaks
    Telemonster double scale tele - finish tobacco burst on body and sand neck

    Completed builds
    scratch oak.rose gum Jazzmaster - assembled needs setup
    MK-2 Mosrite - assembled - play in
    Ash tele with Baritone neck - neck pup wiring tweaks and play in

  8. #28
    Guest
    Quote from wokkaboy on February 18, 2013, 14:31
    Hi Gavin,
    the piece of wood you cut to fit inside the neck/pickup pocket, is that glued in or how does it stay secure when you pick up the guitar ? I have just started an ES and wondered about how to attach the wood handle

    Also Andy from Wudtone I must have read the instructions incorrectly, I've been applying the base coat 1st and then the deep coat, is there a problem with this method ?
    cheers Wokka
    Hi Wokka, It's only a problem if you now wish the colour was deeper. Here is why.

    Essentially, when the wood is bare ( and most porous) it will soak up most finish (always depends on the type/ nature of the wood). The higher concentration of dye in the deep colour coat, makes it a bit thinner(so it penetrates,colours better) and this all helps to fix a deeper colour at the start. The other major factor is the preparation of the wood. As mentioned before it really doesn't want sanding to finely, 250 grit is plenty ( maybe even less for something like Black Magic Woman) . After a first deep colour coat, the wood will be less porous, it may still be a little porous so use another deep colour coat, how much it soaks in will be less ( just depends on the wood again). After two/max 3 deep colour coats, you probably want to shift to using base coat and not deep colour coat. The wood is less porous and so you are now really applying colour enriching ( and protection) coats on top of what is already applied. So to help this the base coat is a bit thicker in consistency. This makes it easier to apply a slightly thicker coat which with the dye in the base coat enriches the colour further.

    Hope that helps.



  9. #29
    Moderator Gavin1393's Avatar
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    Quote from GlennGP on January 23, 2013, 15:42
    Not my colour, but I'm sure someone out there's getting hard looking at this! Nice work, mate.

    GGP
    Here we go - based on Andy's request and photographic directions!




    http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au/forum/image.php?type=sigpic&userid=1258&dateline=1443806  448Gavmeister

  10. #30
    Moderator Gavin1393's Avatar
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    Hi Wokka,

    The fit of the wood at the neck is simply 'tight'. No screws or anything to hold it in.
    http://www.buildyourownguitar.com.au/forum/image.php?type=sigpic&userid=1258&dateline=1443806  448Gavmeister

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