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Thread: roughing up decal paper

  1. #1
    Moderator fender3x's Avatar
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    roughing up decal paper

    I was trying to use my inkjet printer to create a water-slide decal...but unlike in the past, the ink just did not seem to want to stick to the paper. It kept breaking up as in the pic* at the top.

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    After several failed attempts I roughed up my decal paper with a 3m Maroon sanding pad. The second attempt is the result. Not perfect, but a lot better than attempts 1-x before roughing up the paper, and the flaws won't be too visible under clear coat.

    The other thing I have learned is that maybe I should be trying to find a laser printer to do this with...


    *Not sure why the light was so much better in the first image than the 2nd. Of course the better the light *would* be better on the botched decal...
    Last edited by fender3x; 15-10-2024 at 08:47 AM.

  2. #2
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    I normally use an inkjet but found the laser gave a sharper line. You do realise that you can't use the paper for an inkjet in a laser?
    I make mine in reverse and then use acrylic art paints to fill in the colour. All I do is mix some wood glue with water to thin it down and a small art brush to flatten the decal. Once I put some finish on it isn't going anywhere.
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  3. #3
    Moderator fender3x's Avatar
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    I knew that you can't use inkjet paper with a laserjet. What I didn't know is that it doesn't always work that well with an inkjet printer either. I have access to a good laser printer at work...but not sure how they'd feel about finding decal paper stuck in it if things went south.

    Do you have any videos about how you do yours? I am intrigued, but can't quite visualize it.

  4. #4
    Moderator fender3x's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dikkybee007 View Post
    ...I make mine in reverse and then use acrylic art paints to fill in the colour. All I do is mix some wood glue with water to thin it down and a small art brush to flatten the decal. Once I put some finish on it isn't going anywhere.
    I think you're doing something different, but it reminded me of this...which is something I may try. I like the idea of painting the color in also...


  5. #5
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    As you know you print on the side that is opposite to the glue that holds the decal to the guitar. Once I produce the lettering I need I then mirror it in the computer program so it is backwards like when you look into a mirror so when I place the decal on the guitar it is placed upside down with the glue facing up. Once I print the decal I then use either a very small bush that I trim down so it is very thin or of late I have been using a toothpick that I shape the end and use them to put the colour onto the printed decal. Once I finish colouring in the decal I hit it with a fine coat of clear just to lock the paint onto the paper so it doesn't smudge. I then soak the decal to remove it from the backing paper and using a wood glue thinned with water solution I place the decal on the guitar and using a fine paint brush I flatten the decal.
    Once the glue has dried I then put on a few coats of clear to finish the installation.
    Last edited by Dikkybee007; 20-10-2024 at 11:51 AM.
    Builds :
    # 1 - Non PBG ES-335
    # 2 - Non PBG Tele Thin line
    # 3 - Non PBG LP
    # 4 - Non PBG SG
    # 5 - RC-1
    # 6 - TL-1
    # 7 - ST-1 Custom
    # 8 - SGB-30 + Non PBG SG
    # 9 - Custom JRM-1DC 12 String
    #10 - Custom ST-1 with P90's
    #11 - Custom TL-1 with 27" Bari Neck
    #12 - Custom JZ-6 Jazzmaster
    #13 - AG-1 Factory Second
    #14 - Custom JZ-6 Bass vi
    #15 - EX-1R Factory Second
    #16 - AGM-1
    #17 - EXA-7

  6. #6
    Moderator fender3x's Avatar
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    Thanks for the detail! I may give it a shot ;-)

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