You might find a short-frame toggle switch easier to fit than a right-angled one as it gives you a bit more room between components.
I don't know if there are any benefits of the longer frame switches over the shorter ones? I know Gibson normally use the longer frame models (and the right-angled switches by design need a long contact length), but was that originally from expedience as that was what was around, and now they just use them because of tradition?
I've redrawn Wierdbits' wiring diagram to work some ideas about how I will lay this out in practice.
In this first drawing (above), I've:
- moved the ground to the three way switch to be closer to the bridge
- run the neck pickup to the volume pot
- connected the third wire from the neck pickup to a spare lead in the 4-conductor wire to run it to the 4PDT switch
It takes the wiring around the f-hole, but there are still a lot of ground connections.
In the second drawing (above), I've:
- soldered the braided wire (running from the 3-way switch to the bridge volume) to the neck volume and both tone pots
- removed some of the ground connections which (I think) are no longer needed
This is about as minimalist as I can get the wiring.
Assuming the second drawing is a goer, I have some questions:
1) Should the braided wire running from the 3-way switch to the bridge volume and soldered to the pots be insulated with heatshrink?
2) I assume the wire running from the volume pot to the 4PDT should be shielded due to the length? If so, I assume I need to ground the shielding at one end (only)? And again if so, should it be insulated with heatshrink? Or do I not ground it, but instead run it against the braided wire running from the 3-way switch to the bridge volume and perhaps insulate both together with heatshrink?
I'm going to make up a mounting template tomorrow, and check how the components will fit through the f-holes to make sure everything is aligned correctly. Then, depending on feedback from the brains-trust, I'll start soldering it together over the weekend.
If you connect the yellow output from the middle lug of the Neck volume direct to the 3-way lug along with the multi-core yellow, then you can eliminate the yellow vintage cloth run to the 4PDT. Electrically it is the same and eliminates the long wire run.
You only really need to heat shrink things that could move and short onto something else, depending on how much slack there is in the wiring. In your above diagram, the braided run from the jack to the 3-way would be the most important to cover. Any place where a braid etc could short your hot or potentially touch a ground connection in multiple places and create ‘ground loop’, then it’s better to insulate it.
In some cases, especially with small wires, heat shrinking connections can make them more robust as well as protecting them from shorts. If you do put heat shrink on connections, put it in place but (where possible) don’t shrink it down until you’re sure everything is solid and working correctly. And again, you always have to have an eye toward how it will fit through the f-hole.
The shorts runs between the Bridge vol push/pull and the 4PDT may be too difficult using the multi-core, so if it is proving too awkward don’t be afraid to go to single wires instead.
Eliminating the yellow vintage cloth to run the 4PDT sure does make things a lot simpler. Thanks for pointing that out - it's genius!
I'll take your advice on board regarding heat shrinks, avoiding ground loops, and wiring short runs when it comes to hooking things up. I'm feeling much more confident with this now - thank you.
I appreciate the photos you sent through - it's given me a lot to think about regarding fitting all this through the f-hole.
I'll post some photos when I start work on this over the weekend.
You've been really helpful with all this - thank you. Simon has been incredibly helpful too.
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