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Thread: 5th scratch build

  1. #31
    Moderator fender3x's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rabbit View Post
    Kinda odd. Personally I prefer the split type of p-bass pups. Maybe people are digging the single coil sound. My partner in crime, the guy who does mostly Les Paul style instraments did mention a guy here in Aus that does hand wound pups, but I think they are spendy.
    I don't disagree. But Sting and Dusty Hill both liked the older style and they seem to be resurging in popularity.



    Sent from my LE2125 using Tapatalk

  2. #32
    OK, second attempt at this post, first one I got to the end, and had a brain fart, I clicked "+ Reply to Thread" instead of "Post Quick Reply", and the whole post vanished! Lucky when I came back and tried again it asked me if I wanted to restore.

    More minor progress on the pickup front.

    This is a Mojotone hand tensioner used to put tension on the coil wire while it's being wound:



    Sorry if the picture is kinda tiny. And here is what I came up with. Not as elegant, but functional:





    I used a mig tip designed for 0.6mm wire and put a taper on it to make it look pretty. I figured that compared to the 0.06mm wire used to wind the pups, 0.6mm should be big enough to drive a bus through. No such luck. There is a video on how to load the mojo tone tool that makes it seem so easy, but i found I couldn't thread the wire through, it is so flimsy it kept bending before it got half way through. In the end I had to thread some 0.4mm wire I happen to have and solder the end of the coil wire to it and pull that through.

    Some 2mm eyelet/grommets came so I was able to drill holes and install two of them on the second pup to see if that gave me a neater way to connect the coil to the leads and anchor them.

    Here's the connection of the first pup without them. I used 5min epoxy to anchor the leads:



    And this is the second one with the grommets:



    See if you can guess which grommet was installed first :\

    I won't be using these pups because I'm not happy with the way the top bowed up instead of staying flat. I'm going to try 2mm thick Ironbark.It's all been a learning experience.

  3. #33
    Moderator fender3x's Avatar
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    What split on you? The closest that I have come to making the wood bass that you have are pickup rings that I made out of maple. Knowing what I know now, I would probably make them out of a softer wood. Maple was hard to sand to remove material and also had a high propensity to split...much like at your eyelet. I mention this because of the mention of Ironwood... We don't have that here in Florida so I had to look it up. Wow! that stuff is hard...like somewhere between Brazilian and Honduran rosewood hard. It looks like it might make a harder version of a maple fingerboard...A light fingerboard over a mahogany neck would look very cool...but I digress... Is there an advantage to using a very hard wood for the base of the pickup rather than an easier to work wood?

    In any case...this is looking more and more like an Aussie Boutique pickup ;-)

  4. #34
    Quote Originally Posted by fender3x View Post
    What split on you? The closest that I have come to making the wood bass that you have are pickup rings that I made out of maple. Knowing what I know now, I would probably make them out of a softer wood. Maple was hard to sand to remove material and also had a high propensity to split...much like at your eyelet. I mention this because of the mention of Ironwood... We don't have that here in Florida so I had to look it up. Wow! that stuff is hard...like somewhere between Brazilian and Honduran rosewood hard. It looks like it might make a harder version of a maple fingerboard...A light fingerboard over a mahogany neck would look very cool...but I digress... Is there an advantage to using a very hard wood for the base of the pickup rather than an easier to work wood?

    In any case...this is looking more and more like an Aussie Boutique pickup ;-)
    hehe yeh, Australian hardwords kinda redefine "hard"....the kinda thing you use to hammer in nails when you don't have a hammer ') I'm using red ironbark for one of the fretboards. the axe will be spotted gum.

    the advantage of using the ironbark wasn't about the base, although as a single layer bobbin base it would also apply, but it's stiffness I'm after. The so called rock maple bent up from the pressure of the winds in the coil.

  5. #35
    Moderator Trevor Davies's Avatar
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    The grommets look really neat - shame about the split!
    PitBull Builds: FVB-4, LP-1SS, FBM-1, AG-2, TB-4, SSCM-1, TLA-1, TL-1TB, STA-1HT, DSCM-1 Truckster, ST-1, STA-1, MBM-1, MBM custom.

    Scratch Builds: Pine Explorer, Axe Bass, Mr Scary, Scratchy Tele's.

    The little voices in my head keep telling me "build more guitars"

  6. #36
    Quote Originally Posted by Trevor Davies View Post
    The grommets look really neat - shame about the split!
    Luckily I'm making new pups so i't no big deal, but a valuable learning experience. I used an imperial drill that gave a snug fit.I think using a slightly larger hole will give the grommet room for expansion. The other mistake I made with the first of those two grommets was belting the installation tool too hard.

    Edit: to avoid a double post , a quick update. I wound a test pup using red ironbark flatwork. Wasn't sure if I had enough wire left. Turns out that I did and the ironbark worked out. I also tried using a slightly larger drill to install a couple of rivets/grommets. That also worked , no splitting.
    Last edited by Rabbit; 11-06-2023 at 10:25 AM.

  7. #37
    Well it's been a while, but I have been working on way too many other projects, some of which overlap, some of which are unrelated to guitar building.

    I made new bobbins for the axe.They are alnico v pole pieces and the poles are reversed between each bobbin. The stuff between pole pieces is epoxy because wax just runs out when I pot them.



    These wont be true humbuckers as the windings will be scatterwound . there will be a 10mm gap between pups. I also stained the upper flatwork black because I had recollection of them being black with the silver pole pieces. Turns out that was wrong, and I am going to have to make silver covers. I did a test to see if I could weld the 0.25mm stainless sheet. My welder stops at 10amp as a min and that's not low enough. My other options are silver braze, or to try making a plug and form and try to press them. not sure how that will go without crinkling the curves.

    I will also have to play around with cams on my neck carving jig to get the profile correct for the shorter, narrower neck.

  8. #38
    Moderator fender3x's Avatar
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    I am really impressed with what you are able to fabricate. Shaping up to be one of the coolest and scratchiest of builds ;-)

    I keep thinking that you've built all the equipment, so if you like doing this, I am sure there's a market

  9. #39
    Nice work there Rabbit, interesting way to go for customising. Refining a technique is one of the most satisfying outcomes doing this sort of thing. Keep the posts coming, I'm interested in the end results.

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