Well done! Always nerve-racking doing something like that, but at least you were doing it before any finish went on, so you could have probably steamed out any dent if you did make a mark.
Well done! Always nerve-racking doing something like that, but at least you were doing it before any finish went on, so you could have probably steamed out any dent if you did make a mark.
The D’Addario strings are notorious for having the same issue as the Fender ones that come with the Squier VIs... the low E is just too light and feels... floppy.
However, that's on the Squier, if that hasn't been your experience on the JZ-6 that's great news. If anything, I would have thought it'd be worse on the JZ-6 since the total length (from tremolo anchor to machine head) is shorter than the Squier VI... 🤔
I currently use Fender Super 250s (.024 - .100) on mine, but I just got some Stringjoy ones from the US that I am going to trial (.026 - .095). The Fender ones are strangely becoming hard to come by locally... so...
Total length has nothing to do with the string tension. It will affect how it feels to bend strings, but for straightforward fretting, it makes no difference. The string frequency equation using of vibrating length, mass per unit length and tension still mean that if the scale length is the same, then for the same strings, the tension will be the same.
It’s only when you start bending strings and overcome the static friction at the nut and bridge that the extra lengths of string come into play and it becomes easier to bend a string a certain distance. However, for a longer overall string, you have to bend it further to get it to the same raised tension (say up a semitone) as a shorter overall string length. So in the end you still apply just as much force with your fingers, but it feels a bit easier through most of the bend action.
I haven’t heard of that method before.
Presumably you just dab the finish on and then sand that when dry using the oil instead of water to stop the wood expanding in the holes. Or do you sand when the finish is wet to spread it around and push it into the wood?
I’ve been thinking about the pickup configuration. I’m going to install the stock setup first and live with it for a while, but I’m leaning toward the idea of a pickup closer to the bridge with an SSH configuration, with coil splitting in switch position 2.
Third colour coat on the body and second clear coat on the neck.
I'm probably only going to do three coats on the neck. The body will have around three more colour coats and then around four clear coats.
I'm thinking of using Forstner bits with a hand drill to carve out a cavity for a bridge humbucker, as I don't have a router and can't justify the expense of one.
Has anyone had experience doing it that way?
Will it be exposed or will it be covered by a pickguard?
If exposed, you'll need to keep it very neat (even with a pickup surround). Whilst Forstner bits are a good way of removing a lot of wood, unless you have good chiselling skills for the final removal, you may find that finishing off the sides with a sanding drum on a Dremel is easiest. My woodworking skills are such that I certainly wouldn't do a rout for a body-mounted pickup (with no surround) without using a router.
Don't forget that the central spike on a Forstnet bit (depending on its diameter) can be between 3-5mm long, so allow for that when drilling and don't go deeper than you need to as you don't want holes poking out the back.
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