I always apply some clear coat to the decals whilst still on the backing sheet. Makes them far more rigid and less likely to crease up and stick to themselves when applying them.
I also use the model-making decal fixers, Micro Sol and Micro Set to help get them to adhere as well and as flat as possible.
That sounds like the pots are linear. Log pots drop off much more quickly and therefore we hear the change sooner.
I guess it depends on the kit, I have had a mix out of the 4 kits I've done. But it's not too expensive to buy log pots, just make sure you match the size. I'm accidentally upgrading to large on one build which means drilling through metal and buying new pot covers.
I always apply clear too but whether or not I left them long enough soaking maybe my problem (seller disputed any batch problems). Got one on anyhow. Sort of happy with the sound. But I can't seem to get the first fret to sound properly even though all my measurements for string height at 17th fret and pickup clearances are spot on. Frustrating.
Open sting OK? Just the 1st fret buzzing slightly? All strings?
Could be a high fret, could be you haven't got enough neck relief. The more you play with necks and setups, the more you get to understand necks and that they aren't all the same and a setting that works on one neck may not work on another.
If you go through the process of levelling and reprofiling the frets, you can normally get a very good action and overall set-up.
Open strings all OK. All strings (I'm talking only the 6-string neck by the way - 12-string fine??!!) give only a 'thuk' when played both at the first and second frets; third fret and we're back to a normal sound. Never had to do any work with frets in the past so levelling and profiling would be a new experience (13 kits and counting). May have been lucky all these years?
It could be high frets but is sounds more like there's a bit of a back-bow in the neck. Hold a string at the 1st and last frets (use a capo if easier) and see if you've got a gap between the string and fret around the 7th fret. If it's touching or almost touching, you might find that turning the truss rod anti-clockwise will give you enough neck relief to get those frets playing properly (you may then need to lower the bridge a bit).
The truss rods are double-action so can bend the neck both ways. You may find that there's a lack of resistance to start with (or you come across it when turning the rod), but this just means that the rod's in the central position between adding more bow (anti-clockwise when looking from the headstock down the neck) and flattening the neck/adding back-bow (turning clockwise), and should start to bite within a few turns.
Unless you know you have a lot of bow to take, out or add, the general advice given is to never turn more than 1/4 turn before checking the result.
So I'd try the truss rod adjustment first before deciding to have a go at fret levelling. With a few tools, fret levelling is actually pretty easy, but time consuming, but you may find it's not necessary.
Checked at 7th and string touching. Will look at loosening strings to get at truss rod cover and try the anticlockwise turn to bow neck and see if it makes a difference. Thanks.
Success! First time adjusting a truss rod. Eighth of a turn anti-clockwise relieved the neck and an imperceptible gap at 7th, retuned and hey presto, plays well at all frets. Now to see whether I can lift the guitar!! My poor back (you were right Trevor!).
[…]
When you cough then you’ll know, if the bulge doesn’t go
Heavy lifting is what you are paying for
Ooh, ooh, and he’s building a stairway to hernia
[…]
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