I've used CA on an engineered 'blackwood' fretboard to keep all the fibres together and it was fine. Similar to the thin epoxy that was used on another 'blackwood' fretboard (on my ES-1/330 style) for the same purpose.
This is starting to get somewhere. I polished the body and glued the neck on.
I just have swirls and fine scratch marks which I'm hoping I can get out with more elbow grease.
[QUOTE=jarro_2783;222325]This is starting to get somewhere. I polished the body and glued the neck on.
I just have swirls and fine scratch marks which I'm hoping I can get out with more elbow grease.
I hope mine comes out even close to that pretty!
Going for a transYellow (black hardware)
Yeah it is a shame. I've learnt a few things if there is a next time.
Light sand on the veneer, make sure the glue comes off first.
Funny thing is it changes colour at different angles. So from one direction the colour difference isn't noticeable, and looking from below it has this hologram effect where the flame pattern changes as I move my head around.
I'm guessing the two halves of the veneer were not from the same piece so it all ended up looking different.
Looking at the picture, the flame patters look to be matched L+R, so it does look to be a proper veneer split from the same piece. But remember that you are looking at the top of one piece and the underside of the other (relatively speaking), so the cross-grain angles will be slightly different, leading to the patterns shifting as you change the viewing angle.
Oh I see, so they cut it in half at an angle across the flame and flip one half over? I guess that leads to the differences. I'm still not sure what I could have done to prevent one side being darker though.
Just view it as a thick plank of maple that is split into very thin layers. One layer forms one half of the top, the next layer forms the other half.
Wood is a very changeable material and no two pieces are the same. Possibly, if the pieces were thicker, they might look a bit more consistent (and would allow a lot more sanding).
Strangely, in the first picture of the basic kit, it's the top half that looks a bit lighter (from the same angle), but now looks darker in your last picture.
I started laying out the electronics and hardware to solder. I have a couple of questions.
Have I got the pickups on the right way around? I see the plastic is higher on one side, so I'm guessing it matters.
Are the saddle points supposed to be reversed for the two halves?
Which side would you put the saddle screws on? Either way looks annoying to adjust once the strings are on.
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