Lefty ES-1GL

[jarro_2783]

On top of the other two guitars, I've also got an ES-1GL going. The body construction looks pretty good to me, and the hardware seems pretty sturdy, including coming with proper tone pots. I'm hoping the flame maple will come out well with some stain.



A couple of questions:

1. The neck fit in the slot when I first tried the kit, after two weeks in Sydney air it now is too tight to get in. What's the best way to fix that up?

2. I've seen people suggest masking the binding and f-holes when I stain it, but I could also scrape the binding instead. What's the best approach here, and what am I actually masking in the f-holes?

3. The bridge post holes are a tiny bit too wide, same as with the JM-1L I built last year. This time I decided I will try to fix it, plus that kit is out of stock now so they can't send me a replacement anyway. The calipers say that the hole is 1.17cm, and the post is 1.18cm diameter. I don't know what they are supposed to be, but it obviously isn't small enough to hold the post in tightly.

[colin2121]

I have not worked on a kit like this but I can see some binding on the inside of the f holes in the photos. That would be hard to scrape so masking is best. Same with the binding around the edge of the body.
Given how much rain we have had in Sydney over the last couple of weeks the timber has probably absorbed moisture from the air. Might be best to give it a bit of time for the timber to settle after the high levels of rain we have had rather than jumping in and sanding and having a loose fitting neck. Some other Sydney residents might some ideas to throw in on this one.

[jarro_2783]

You can see in the photo there is a tight spot, and there is a similar one on the other side. Even two weeks ago it was snug, but I was able to get it all the way in. So I'm wondering if I just slightly sand off that bit where it touches it will still be snug but actually fit in.
It won't matter in the end too much once I glue it in the right place will it?

[colin2121]

I would do a very minimal sand on the touching point - do it in small steps. Best to keep the fit reasonably snug.
Probably also worth checking the alignment of the neck with the position of the bridge.
I have not done a set neck kit but I would be cautious about sanding too much off and leaving a gap in the neck pocket.

[jarro_2783]

I did a tiny amount of sanding on the neck, it really wasn't cut very well down both sides. It is back to fitting in very snug. I lined up the bridge and it all looks good with some string up the neck.

I realised the saddle probably doesn't need to be tight anyway since it is all held down by string tension. I guess only the string end holder (what is that even called?) needs to be the thing that is tight. The saddle is also just sitting on those two pins rather than screwed down.

[colin2121]

Sounds good.
The tailpiece holds it all in place. you are right about the saddle being loose. Locking saddles are available as an aftermarket add on.
I look forward to seeing this one come together.

[jarro_2783]

Well this doesn't quite look the way I had imagined. Both sides are not really matching, and there are several uneven spots. I'm using feast watson's proof tint, which I worked out was alcohol based. So methylated spirits helped even out some thick spots.

I noticed later that the darker side is quite rough, I'm not sure if I was supposed to sand it lightly before I started. But even so it looks like the light is reflecting differently off the two halves of the flame top. Plus there are some strange spots that just wouldn't take the stain the same.

At least the back and sides look a lot better. I'm happy with my masking of the binding, that took ages, but paid off, and I barely had any stain leak through that I had to scrape off. I found this 6mm masking tape, which was very helpful. If you have a store nearby I would highly recommend using it: https://www.eckersleys.com.au/x-pres...ing-tape-rolls

[Trevor Davies]

Hi Jarro,
the matching top may look better with the clear coats on. You could still lightly sand both sides and restain if the top coats have not been added.

The "strange spots" and join line on the top look like they are glue marks. I have not tried this but some members use goo-off (!) and a soft wire brush to gently remove the glue marks. Then restain.

[Simon Barden]

*Goof-off. There is a product called Goo-Gone, which is more for label adhesive removal and won’t do the job, so don’t get them confused. Goof-off contains a lot of acetone, so pure acetone on its own can be used if you can’t find Goof-off. Avoid acetone with added oils which is much more of a nail polish remover.

[colin2121]

Goof off is available at Bunnings if you have one of those nearby. Comes in a small yellow plastic bottle.