Another scratch build.

[Simon Barden]

Peaked at this in the shade on our patio. This is not normal UK weather!



Much hotter and I'd need a wider range thermometer!

[Stuart D]

Unfortunately I'm the wrong person for that as I love it! I've been lazing on a lounger in the sun for a lot of the day!

Anyway your last post reminded me why I do build diaries, so much appreciated!!! - I'd given no thought to the string spacing whatsoever. I went on the fact that I'd used the same neck template as last time, the same nut width and the same bridge therefore all should be fine. As it turns out that isn't quite correct though I think I'm ok.

The nut width is the same as my last one. The width at the 20th fret (the last one was 24 frets) is exactly 60mm with 50mm string width - again the last one was 50mm string width but 62mm wide neck. The last one is fine to play and I don't think the 2mm will make too much difference, there is still a reasonable gap either side. The bridge is 57mm string width on both. I got my Jazz out and the nut is slightly slimmer (38/39) but the other measurements are the same. I think I'm ok to be honest. I have the option of cutting the nut slots just slightly closer together though I'd have to be careful as i want the gap between the edge and the string to be uniform all the way down.

I set it up using (fat) string and it seemed ok. If it's not good then I'll have to swap the bridge out for a smaller one in terms of string spacing.


This is definitely something to consider in the planning and in hindsight I need to have the all the bits available during the design phase.

Building guitars is learning right? Presumably there is no point at which you say I know everything!!!! Maybe one day I might be able to help others - at the moment, not so much!!

[McCreed]

Nice work Stu!

[bassdude]

Peaked at this in the shade on our patio. This is not normal UK weather!



Much hotter and I'd need a wider range thermometer!

Gettin' a bit warm there, Simon. Might have to think about turnin' the fan on if was over 'ere!

Peter

[Simon Barden]

Or even taking a jumper off.

[Stuart D]

Simon have you got any recommendations for rattle can lacquer? I looked on Amazon but it’s not easy to know what’s good and what isn’t. U.K. obviously.

[Simon Barden]

All the suppliers I've use are (or were) based around Manchester, so they probably all have a common source.

The original supplier was Manchester Guitar Tech https://manchesterguitartech.co.uk/

Then Rothko and Frost joined in https://www.rothkoandfrost.com/guita...pray-paint-c34
as did Northwest Guitars https://www.northwestguitars.co.uk/n...lose-aerosols/ and also ToneTech Luthiers https://tonetechluthiersupplies.co.u...-lacquers.html

I can't say I've noticed any difference in the products, and I generally buy by stock availability and whether they have other things I also need to ensure free shipping.

[Stuart D]

So at this stage, after a rather excessive work schedule then a couple of weeks away, I'm back to put the finish on. Did all the required sanding and drilled the holes for volume/tone.

I decided to go for an oil type finish in the end - I bought some Crimson guitars Penetrating oil and some High build finishing oil. I'll go for a rattle can lacquer on the next one.

I presume they are similar (ish) in content to a Truoil/Danish Oil type finish, and along the lines of a blend of BLO, varnish and thinners though Crimson are rather reticent about supplying the ingredients and proportions. I'm guessing the High Build stuff has a slightly higher proportion of varnish as it's giving a glossier type finish and it's slightly thicker in consistency. Anyway it seems pretty straightforward to apply and seems to go on fairly easily.

A bit of advice. After I've done sufficient coats which I'm getting near to, I'll leave it to cure off for a couple of weeks. Then what is the process for finishing off? Is it the same process that I do with wipe on varnish; i.e. level sand then polish? Level sanding doesn't seem as necessary with an oil finish from looking at it, though I'm far from an expert using oil. I've seen others use some 0000 wire wool (horrible stuff - seems to go everywhere) and then some wax.

[Simon Barden]

If you want a gloss finish, then you will have to sand back and then go up through the grits and polish. If you want a more satin look, then you could leave it as-is if it looks smooth enough.

Putting wax on a finish is not something I'd do myself as I just can't see the point. But it's a personal thing.

I'd suggest using the three finest Scotch-Brite pads instead of wire-wool. The maroon, grey and white ones. 0, 00 and 0000 wire-wool equivalents.

[Stuart D]

I did wonder about the wax - thought it might attract dust and dirt and stuff.

Thanks Simon. I'll see what it looks like when I've done three more coats, which is what I plan to do.

I applied the first four or five coats using a fine grit paper, but I'm just wiping it on as normal now.

I'll go for the sanding option - mainly because I've got a reasonable amount of paper up to around 2500.