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Thread: Djp-fs1

  1. #1
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    Djp-fs1

    Whilst I am waiting for the finish on my ongoing Flying V build to properly cure - I've started an FS1 kit with a flamed maple top that has been on the shelf for about a year.
    I had shared some pictures of it previously when I queried some worries that I had with it. i.e. It looks nice, but has a small problem with a piece of broken binding at the neck pocket (now snapped off), and a pretty scruffy cut to the pocket. It also appeared to have a glue spot. When I noticed this I was initially a bit underwhelmed - but chatted with some folks on the forum decided its not a deal breaker, but an opportunity to have a go and learn a bit more about repairing different things.
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    Last edited by DJP; 14-04-2022 at 01:18 AM.
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  2. #2
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    OK. So - I managed to pop the grain very nicely using some black timbermate - diluted and applied thinly.
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    Last edited by DJP; 14-04-2022 at 01:28 AM.
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  3. #3
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    However I was mistaken about the glue spots. The flamed top which had not looked bad – actually has the most dreadful glue spots. Entire areas of veneer seemed completely saturated in parts (I think I missed a big one when checking as I was not expecting such big areas). I’ve been down the route of using goof off and a wire brush – carefully for a long time but that really has only helped with one or two areas.
    Last edited by DJP; 14-04-2022 at 01:26 AM.
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  4. #4
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    I wanted a black finish. An application of black Keda Dye shows the issue. All the light areas around the cut away areas at the neck and aroind where the pots will go are glue spots. Also around the top of top f hole, and also a fair bit around neck pick up cavity and neck pocket.
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    Last edited by DJP; 14-04-2022 at 01:30 AM.
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  5. #5
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    White spots show up against black.
    I rubbed back the black stain coats and was left with a nice tiger stripe. Applied a blue dye - looked better - but still really "spotty". Spent time pooling dye on areas of glue and applying wire brush again. A little improvement - but still very spotty / patchy.
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    At this stage - I was close to sanding off cap - but spotted a comment on forum (when searched on glue spots in veneers) mentioning might hide such things under a burst. So I thought - put the sander away and try a black burst.
    Never done a burst ... can always get sander out again if it fails.
    Last edited by DJP; 14-04-2022 at 01:33 AM.
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  6. #6
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    Ok. Its not perfect. But actually looks really quite nice when wet and shiny. Applied loads of coats of dye and again occasionally applied wire brush over gluey areas between coats. Oh ... and very careful application of a sharpy helped when one of the pieces of dark figuring with grain fill got blitzed out by a glue spot. Might leave sander in cupboard. Not sure.
    Last edited by DJP; 14-04-2022 at 01:07 AM.
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  7. #7
    Overlord of Music McCreed's Avatar
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    Quite an improvement over the initial photo, and quite a good recovery, but it's just a damn shame this continues to be an issue that seems to plague every veneered top kit these days.

    I know others have had success using acrylic paints to camouflage stubborn glue areas. May be worth a shot.
    Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...

  8. #8
    Mentor Trevor Davies's Avatar
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    The tiger maple looks nice. I would keep persevering with top and sharpies.
    PitBull Builds: FVB-4, LP-1SS, FBM-1, AG-2, TB-4, SSCM-1, TLA-1, TL-1TB, STA-1HT, DSCM-1 Truckster, ST-1, STA-1, MBM-1.

    Scratch Builds: Pine Explorer, Axe Bass, Mr Scary, Scratchy Tele's.

    The little voices in my head keep telling me "build more guitars"

  9. #9
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    Back and sides are looking better than top.
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    Completed Builds
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  10. #10
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    From a certain angle ... in a certain light
    It can look great.
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    Completed Builds
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    #6 FV-1G
    #5 ATL 1SB Thinline
    #4 ST1-Jnr
    # 3 JBA-4
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