Page 3 of 6 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 ... LastLast
Results 21 to 30 of 58

Thread: Djp-fs1

  1. #21
    Headstock look fantastic!
    #001 (LP-1S) [finished - co-runner up Nov 2018 GOTM]
    #002 (WL-1)
    #003 (MPL Megacaster - semi scratch build) [finished]
    #004 (ST-1 JR - Arachnoid Superhero build) [finished]
    #005 (LP jr)
    #006 (TL-1A)

    Junk shop acoustic refurbs (various)
    'The TGS Special'

  2. #22
    Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    265
    Added a bit of ink to headstock.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Resizer_16525236248683.jpg 
Views:	76 
Size:	425.2 KB 
ID:	43102
    Completed Builds
    #7 FS-1
    #6 FV-1G
    #5 ATL 1SB Thinline
    #4 ST1-Jnr
    # 3 JBA-4
    # 2 LP-1S
    # 1 TLA-1R

  3. #23
    Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    265
    Success ! (? )
    Managed to keep flamed cap in spite of dreadful glue patches.
    It was a disaster in blue. There was glue in the flamed maple cap. So the dye would not penetrate. Using the idea that ink sits on a surface, and on a previous build highlighted the grain very well - I decided to give it a try with the tiny sliver if cap left. It seems to have worked !
    I still have flame and the glue spots seem hidden very well at this stage.
    Have burnished with newspaper and I reckon it should look good under some nitro.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Resizer_16525230122913.jpg 
Views:	73 
Size:	189.9 KB 
ID:	43103
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Resizer_16525229941191.jpg 
Views:	75 
Size:	824.4 KB 
ID:	43104
    Last edited by DJP; 14-05-2022 at 06:33 PM.
    Completed Builds
    #7 FS-1
    #6 FV-1G
    #5 ATL 1SB Thinline
    #4 ST1-Jnr
    # 3 JBA-4
    # 2 LP-1S
    # 1 TLA-1R

  4. #24
    Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    265
    And another shot. I am so pleased.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Resizer_16525245475921.jpg 
Views:	86 
Size:	763.6 KB 
ID:	43106
    Completed Builds
    #7 FS-1
    #6 FV-1G
    #5 ATL 1SB Thinline
    #4 ST1-Jnr
    # 3 JBA-4
    # 2 LP-1S
    # 1 TLA-1R

  5. #25
    Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    265
    With a few clear coats.
    More needed - but its already getting there.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Resizer_16543370015071.jpg 
Views:	73 
Size:	778.4 KB 
ID:	43225
    Completed Builds
    #7 FS-1
    #6 FV-1G
    #5 ATL 1SB Thinline
    #4 ST1-Jnr
    # 3 JBA-4
    # 2 LP-1S
    # 1 TLA-1R

  6. #26

  7. #27
    Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    265
    Thanks Simon.
    I thinks the finish will turn out ok after all.
    Top is now glassy.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Resizer_16545135557693.jpg 
Views:	68 
Size:	778.4 KB 
ID:	43237
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Resizer_16545135410441.jpg 
Views:	68 
Size:	908.9 KB 
ID:	43238
    I have had to re-coat the back though - I had sprayed and flattened most of it a few weeks back, but noticed a few hairline cracks in the nitro finish - water got through when finishing sanding it with fine grits today and caused some swelling. So I've had to re-spray the back. Should work out though.
    Neck and headstock pretty much polished up and finished - now just need to panick about fixing in my first set neck.
    Completed Builds
    #7 FS-1
    #6 FV-1G
    #5 ATL 1SB Thinline
    #4 ST1-Jnr
    # 3 JBA-4
    # 2 LP-1S
    # 1 TLA-1R

  8. #28
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Reading, UK
    Posts
    10,547
    Fixing it is easy. Just glue and clamp!

    I'd use one clamp for the end of the fretboard, and one for the tenon.


    Don't forget to use some wood cauls to protect the finish. You don't want to clamp directly to the guitar. I made up a fretboard clamping caul from a bit of MDF and a self-adhesive cork tile cut into strips. It's better if you can clamp on the fretboard wood rather than the frets, as applying pressure in the middle of the frets does try and lift the ends of the frets out.



    I used more self-adhesive cork (bought from Amazon and designed for the back of drinks coasters) on other bits of MDF for more clamping cauls that shouldn't mark the finish.

  9. #29
    Member
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    265
    That cork is a very good idea. I had seen someone recommend using some wood to avoid clamping the frets ad the finish - but this will add a whole extra layer of protection. I'm sure I have a cork tile somewhere and I will definitely make up a piece like yours. There is no tennon on the neck of the FS kit - so I will need to be really careful measuring and setting the neck in position. (needed to do that carefully to mask off the neck before finishing - so am part way there).
    Completed Builds
    #7 FS-1
    #6 FV-1G
    #5 ATL 1SB Thinline
    #4 ST1-Jnr
    # 3 JBA-4
    # 2 LP-1S
    # 1 TLA-1R

  10. #30
    Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2022
    Location
    Wollongong, NSW
    Posts
    58
    Quote Originally Posted by DJP View Post
    That cork is a very good idea. I had seen someone recommend using some wood to avoid clamping the frets ad the finish - but this will add a whole extra layer of protection. I'm sure I have a cork tile somewhere and I will definitely make up a piece like yours. There is no tennon on the neck of the FS kit - so I will need to be really careful measuring and setting the neck in position. (needed to do that carefully to mask off the neck before finishing - so am part way there).
    I have an unused pack of cork placemats somewhere that would do the job nicely, by cutting & glueing varied width strips on a wood block @ fret spacing offsets. Another WDITOT moment!

    Peter

Page 3 of 6 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 ... LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •