Sanded back.
Have not taken right off yet.
There is a tiny sliver of cap left. You can see the glue at the edge where the cap was thin and saturated.
Before I sand any more I am toying with the idea of trying an Indian ink finish for the top. I did one on a build before and noticed that the ink - which unlike a dye sits on the surface - preserved the grain texture. Like this ...
So - am wondering if it could rescue a bit of texture in this top.
I guess I have got nothing to loose. Can always just flatten and spray black if does not work.
Completed Builds
#7 FS-1
#6 FV-1G
#5 ATL 1SB Thinline
#4 ST1-Jnr
# 3 JBA-4
# 2 LP-1S
# 1 TLA-1R
Can I suggest that if you like how the back turned out, you could fully sand the veneer off the front and stain the wood you find underneath. Its pretty much a lucky dip on what the grain looks like, but if you're willing to roll with it, you should end up with a great looking guitar. Here are two projects of mine, in which the veneer stain ended up no good so I sanded it off and worked with the substrate grain instead:
https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...ad.php?t=12020 - started life as a spalted maple veneer.
https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...ad.php?t=12001 - was originally a flame veneer.
I can't guarantee that you'll be happy with it - all I can say is that its paid off for me 2 out of 2 times. Again, I had to be flexible and willing to accept whatever grain was underneath the veneer.
Thanks. Those are lovely results. If the wood is decent beneath the veneer I'd be hoping I could achieve something similar. They really look great. Removing the cap completely was exactly what I planned originally and suspect I will actually end up doing. But first - I'm thinking its probably a chance to experiment at no real cost other than time. Might be something in it.
Completed Builds
#7 FS-1
#6 FV-1G
#5 ATL 1SB Thinline
#4 ST1-Jnr
# 3 JBA-4
# 2 LP-1S
# 1 TLA-1R
Next job ...might replace fret dots with abalone ones.
Completed Builds
#7 FS-1
#6 FV-1G
#5 ATL 1SB Thinline
#4 ST1-Jnr
# 3 JBA-4
# 2 LP-1S
# 1 TLA-1R
I’ve replaced abalone dot markers with back plastic ones in the past on a maple board because I found the contrast too low and they were very hard too see at a playing angle.
That is a very good point Simon. Thank you. I will have a look at them and if they are a bit light will probably save them for another build. I am pretty sure they are regular and not dark abalone dots. The fretboard is pretty bland though - no flame in it - just a bit of horizontal grain (in my last maple fretboard project I was lucky enough to get a kit which had beautiful flame- which looks lovely).
Completed Builds
#7 FS-1
#6 FV-1G
#5 ATL 1SB Thinline
#4 ST1-Jnr
# 3 JBA-4
# 2 LP-1S
# 1 TLA-1R
Flame looks nice but in reality a straight grain maple neck is stronger. It certainly won’t make it dangerously weak, but a flame maple or birdseye maple neck won’t be as rigid over time as a straight-grained neck will be. Whilst not the most aesthetic choice, it is the better engineering one.
PitBull Builds: FVB-4, LP-1SS, FBM-1, AG-2, TB-4, SSCM-1, TLA-1, TL-1TB, STA-1HT, DSCM-1 Truckster, ST-1, STA-1, MBM-1.
Scratch Builds: Pine Explorer, Axe Bass, Mr Scary, Scratchy Tele's.
The little voices in my head keep telling me "build more guitars"