GRSF1 neck pocket Issue

[Michael66]

Hi all some time ago I purchased the GR1SF Kit. The laminated body was faulty on receipt and PBG promptly sent me a second kit when I returned the first one.
I followed all the instructions to the letter and all went well... some months later I got back into it to do the wiring. On inspecting the finished construction I noticed the neck was not level E to E along the whole length. I thought this was weird as I had been very careful gluing and clamping the neck in its socket.
I inserted a pair of level check rods - 1 at the bridge and 1 at the nut and it showed the neck was out of square by about 3 or 4 mm. The neck and body had the same numbers stamped so they were not unmatched.
My question is: Does anyone know how to safely remove the glued-in neck without damaging any parts. I used Titebond III Ultimate. Is it a lost cause?
Any advice appreciated.
Mike

[McCreed]

Hmmm, could be a tricky one...

The Titebond III is a PVA glue vs the generally recommended Titebond Original which is Aliphatic Resin glue and can be more forgiving than PVA (polyvinyl acetate). Many people read about using "Titebond" not knowing that there are different formulas within their range.

One good thing is that at least your kit is a hollow body and allows better access to the neck joint via the neck pickup hole than a solid body might. Heat and moisture (ultimately steam) are going to be the two main ingredients to removing that neck.
I successfully removed an non-PBG LP kit neck with heat from a clothes iron, but it took about 12 hours and it wasn't pretty. Required quite a bit of corrective surgery after. (FTR, it wasn't mine, it was a customers.)
Unfortunately Google might be your best friend here.

Otherwise, and it might hurt your pride, but it may require taking it to a professional luthier as they would (likely) have the right equipment (joint steamer & needle etc). It requires removing a fret and drilling a hole right on the joint line and injecting the steam into it to soften the glue. But it's worth noting the PVA may compound the difficulty.

[Michael66]

Thanks McCreed. Being a woodworker, I have all 3 types of Titebond and chose III as the strongest.
Anyway, I don't think I'll persevere with it. I'll put a light bulb in it and hang it on the wall to read in bed by. An expensive lamp! No more kits for me. ;-/
Cheers
Mike