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Thread: First Build - PRS-1F

  1. #21
    Ok it's been a minute but a little update.

    So as we're all aware I have been combating issues with the glue from the veneer. I tried a couple of tricks to combat it, and got success but also had a few imperfections come up which I didn't think about.
    So I will share here what I did, and the extra steps I should of taken to prevent the issues I now face.

    So, last time I mentioned the common issue of the dyes not adhering.
    I touched up with markers ( Honestly mixing acrylic paints to do this would of been a better option )
    I also had humidity issues laying down first few coats of 2K Clear. This meant I had to fine sand it back in areas, and due to that and no matter how careful I was I had the stain looking patchy/uneven.
    So after thinking about it over many a cup of coffee, and research the deep and dark recesses of the interwebz. I couldn't find an answer for what I thought might work. Which was to lay a thin coat of transparent colour down, and then resume clear coats.
    2k clear is a fickle beast, but I wanted that gloss and hardness.

    So I bit the bullet. The option I chose to use was a small spray can of Transparent green modelling paint ( Tamiya ) as I had it handy and I knew the colour matched my burst.
    I held my breath, and sprayed.
    Instantly I saw success as it not only hid the patchiness, but it also masked the annoying bookmatch glue in middle of veneer.
    So then it got a quick fine grade sand to level, and then the final clear was added.

    Now I managed to get an AMAZING finish with clear. I have minimal Levelling to do before buffing. But, my transparent paint trick did me dirty.
    Effectively the last coats of clear reactivated the base coats as was expected, and due to that the transparent paint ran/shifted in the mix. This meant I have bleed through of the green over the binding.
    It's enough to irk me, but not enough for me to strip the edge down to rectify it and recoat the clear.

    Please note, any and all advice I read online advised against doing this. But If someone finds themselves in the same situation as I did this worked. The only thing I would suggest is taping the binding.

    Otherwise, I'm making progress. Coat has set/hardened and I have glued and clamped neck to body so just waiting the 24hrs for that to move on and final sand/buff.
    I also have neck oil done to my liking. I didn't go to the full 30 coats. I stopped at like 18. As I like the colour it's at now and don't want it darker.

    Cheers
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  2. #22

  3. #23
    Member XP Rider's Avatar
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    Sep 2019
    Location
    Western Utah
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    138
    Beautiful job, Waylander. Amazing what we learn through the build process. I especially like the way the back turned out, re-shaped and stained with killer grain showing.

  4. #24
    Quote Originally Posted by XP Rider View Post
    Beautiful job, Waylander. Amazing what we learn through the build process. I especially like the way the back turned out, re-shaped and stained with killer grain showing.
    Thanks bud. Haven't had a chance to update but it's been complete a few days now.
    Had a minor hiccup with the wiring as I was in such a rush to get it done I forgot the ground wire for the switch. And was stumped as to why it wasn't working on different switch positions 😑

    But anyways, once that was sorted It sounds amazing. Loving the feel of the neck and how it plays.

    Definitely been a learning experience. My plan is to get my hands on a Tele kit next and do a solid colour paint to not have to face the glue issues. Well that and I want a tele styled guitar as well lol.

    Thanks for everyone's input in this build. Other than the glue and delivery issues I've enjoyed the journey.
    I've already started following actual playing lessons and am thoroughly enjoying the fact I'm learning on something I built.
    Click image for larger version. 

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