Build #1: DTL-1 (American Ash body)

[craig747400]

Yes, but it means using another decal. Always put a decal onto a surface that's got some finish on already. a) They aren't designed to stick to a rough surface like wood and b) with clear coat over the top, you'll get a different look to the transparent areas of the decal because they've got a matt wood surface underneath that reflects light in a different way.

Sounds good … I have the ability to sand back the face of the headstock and start that part from scratch, again. *thumbs up*

[craig747400]

Did the shielding, and a look-see with some of the bits in place.

[craig747400]

This week’s efforts saw me strip back the decal, and continue finishing the neck (fixing some blemishes from previous).

With the body, the strap pins, bridge, pickups and pickguard are in place. Next week will be soldering and jackplug installation.

Ordered some waterslide decal paper, and toying with ideas for a new decal (name, font, size, position)?

[craig747400]

Today’s efforts.

Adjusted font size, used a shadow font, and changed a few things. Added a decal to the back of the neck, too.




Soldering successful. Sound test (picture may not have sound, but it worked).

[Simon Barden]

Nice decals!

[McCreed]

Good work.
Look forward to seeing more pics!

[Tim Stahlmann]

Today’s efforts.

Adjusted font size, used a shadow font, and changed a few things. Added a decal to the back of the neck, too.




Soldering successful. Sound test (picture may not have sound, but it worked).

How did you go putting on the decal under the tru-oil?
I am keen to know for my build.

Cheers

Tim

[craig747400]

How did you go putting on the decal under the tru-oil?
I am keen to know for my build.

Cheers

Tim

Hi Tim,

Make sure you have a couple of polished coats of Tru Oil on first, then apply the decal … this prevents a colour difference from showing under the decal. After the decal sets, I very gently applied the Tru Oil over the decal with a model building / hobby paint brush. I will be finishing the polishing of the neck on Wednesday (progress pics to come).

[Tim Stahlmann]

Hi Tim,

Make sure you have a couple of polished coats of Tru Oil on first, then apply the decal … this prevents a colour difference from showing under the decal. After the decal sets, I very gently applied the Tru Oil over the decal with a model building / hobby paint brush. I will be finishing the polishing of the neck on Wednesday (progress pics to come).

Thanks so much mate. Your advice saved me a obvious mistake that I would have made. Many thanks and congrats on the build and your attention to detail. Cheers Tim

[craig747400]

The Tru Oil has set. Before and after polishing pics.

Before polishing, the surface has some waiver to it, kind of like skin.


After polishing.


After polishing … no obvious colour differences noticeable underneath the decal.


Filing the nut was NOT fun. Glad I had 2 nuts, because I made a rookie error on the first attempt. All good now.

Set-up is done to standard-ish factory settings, which I would like to be a bit lower in time. I will play it for a while, and then make minor adjustments to the set-up as I get more of a feel for it.

Weight comparison.
- My JV Strat = 3.4kg / 7.5lbs
- This guitar = 4.45kg / 9.8lbs … it’s a beefcake!

Ready to take home. I will do a sound comparison with my Strats and Silvertones. If I get a good little video of it, I will post a YouTube clip.

Sound comparison today with the Strat: the Strat is surprisingly sharper, albeit, this Strat has the Japanese pickups, but I thought the Tonerider pickups would be ‘bitier’.