First Build TLA-1S

[Swisher48]

Hey guys,

This is my first build and first real detail woodworking project. I'm wanting to build a sweet new guitar but also have a better understanding on how to do work on and modify guitars moving forward.

I have ordered a TLA-1S as I love the look of natural timbers and an excited to see what I get, I was inspired by Wayne.M's TL-1S and Kman42’s ATL-1SB GOTM builds.

So i'm busliy reading the manuals and watching the videos for the coming days until the kit arives.

I have 3 young kids so will likely be a slow build but should be great fun, I'm looking forward to being involved in the forum and hopefully eventually knowing enough to help others too haha.

A couple of quick questions if anyone has time. Sorry if these are already up I am just learning to navigate the forum and I'm happy to be directed to where to find the answers, teach a man to fish and all that.

The manaul says not to sand veneer tops does this mean I should not even do some fine grit work to get it preped or will it be ready to tru oil out of the box.

Any reccomendations to really bring out the grain in these spalted tops? or just many coats of tru oil. Can some stain be apllied for a subtle alteration of the colours?

How can I stain or darken the maple fretboard. Is there particular types of stain i should look into?

Thanks guys.

Cheers,

[Trevor Davies]

Hi and welcome Swisher 48.

The TLA-1S should be a fun build.

Re the sanding veneer tops - most should not need a sand before tru-oil (though a light sand could help get rid of any marks). Some spalted maple may need some filler (I used cn glue for my LPss build). You will need to check for glue marks using damp cloth or similar.

The spalted maple can be stained (but most would not need it).

I'm sure the maple fretboard can be stained with any stain and then coated in tru-oil (I have not done this though). I have stained the maple neck with water based and alcohol based stains.

When you get your kit you should start a build diary and post any questions with that.

Regards

[Swisher48]

Thanks Trevor,

I'll get the build diary going once the kit arrives and go from there.

Cheers

[jonwhitear]

Welcome Swisher48.

I have stained a maple neck and then finished with Tru Oil. It works just fine. I used Feast Watson - I think it may have been very week Golden Teak. It's useful to keep the offcuts from shaping your headstock, so that you can try the stain out on them (or the heel of the neck, as you won't see that.) Bear in mind that TO will add it's own tint as well.

My first kit had a walnut burl veneer, so not too dissimilar from your spalt. I, too, was planning to stain it, but was advised against doing so on here. That turned out to be great advice! Firstly, the TO will add a lovely golden hue, so if you were thinking about a yellow/gold sort of stain, you probably don't need it. Secondly, that stain is going to show up any glue spots or filler in the veneer, which you could do without.

You do have to be careful sanding veneer, as it's very thin. Beast wait until you receive the guitar before making a decision on whether it needs it. I think the general opinion is that most don't.

[Swisher48]

Thanks for the advice John. I think alot more will become a bit clearer once I have the kit in my hands.

A bit more reading around here is really pointing to keeping the spalted top pretty neutral as you mentioned, I think that will be the way to go.

Testing the off cuts is a great pointer that I will certainly use before committing to anything on the neck.

Cheers,

Steve

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