sexy ATL-1SB "THINLINE" first build journey

[thiscocktail]

Good day everyone,

I'm almost done with my first kit but I'm finding a little issue about first frets. I do not own a lot of tool and I'm not ready to work on frets. But after 3 times of setting guitar start to play quite well everywhere into the fretboard beside the first 2-3 frets....I'm quite happy about octaves but the first 2-3 frets are having a kind of high pitch...The Low E is an E, is an E at 12fret but at first is an F almost F#...and like this for few frets...than around 5-6 fret start to be in tune, like after the 12 one...I'm not sure but my feeling is about something wrong at the nut...
any ideas?

[McCreed]

Hi Michael.
I would say your assumptions are correct about the nut. It sounds like the string slots are too high, so when you fret notes on the first few frets, the string is getting stretched (just like when we intentionally bend a string to raise the pitch) except it's being stretched vertically in relation to the fretboard.

There are two way to correct this issue:
1) the individual string slots in the nuts can be filed deeper (generally with specialised "nut" files).
2) the entire nut height can be lowered by sanding/filing the bottom of the nut.

Given you mentioned a lack of tools, I think option 2 is likely your best method.

The best way to do this is to remove the nut from the neck; place a sheet of sandpaper (240) on a solid, known flat surface (eg: a sheet of glass or similar); slowly work the bottom of the nut across the paper being careful not to tilt the nut and thus creating an angled bottom. You can rub pencil lead on the bottom before you start sanding to make sure you're removing material evenly.

You will need to go through a trial and error process of refitting the nut/sanding/refitting etc until it is at your desired height. (NOTE: there are ways of predetermining and marking, but there is always a bit of back & forth)

The clearance you want to achieve is measured like so:
*With the E bass string depressed (or capoed) at the 3rd fret, measure the distance from the bottom of the string to the crown of the first fret.
This should be between .008" -.010"

*With the E treble string depressed (or capoed) at the 3rd fret, measure the distance from the bottom of the string to the crown of the first fret.
This should be between .004" -.006"

If you don't have feeler gauges to measure the clearance, consider this:
An average sheet of 80gsm copy paper is .004" - you can cut strips to make "feelers" and stack them to attain the desired thicknesses.

I hope this helps. Let me know if you have any questions.

[thiscocktail]

It definitely helps...I choose to remove it and sand from the bottom instead to carve more the depressions...guess more safe from not remediable mistakes...I'm almost happy with the results I get. Not perfect...have to work a little on E and A string depressions.
Octaves are better than other guitars I own so can be better but is more than fine like this. Few frets need to be leveled, but also there no big gaps..little things to do but I'm quite happy with results now..I'm not a good player but it works...PU surprised me.

[McCreed]

Glad to hear things are improving!
Doing nut work takes time to learn. It generally doesn't happen on the first nut.

If it's just the E6 and A strings you're not happy with, and need to lower the slots a little bit, you can use off-cuts of the wound strings as "files" to adjust them. Care must be taken to ensure the slot bottom stays flat, but it can be done.

The strings can be used by themselves or with bit of 1200-1500 wet/dry sandpaper.
If using the string by itself, use the same gauge string as the slot you wish to adjust (eg: .046 string for .046" string slot).

Alternatively, use the next gauge down (eg: .036" string for .046" string slot) and fold a small piece of 1200 to create a V, placing the string off-cut in the bottom of the V, then use the string and paper together as a file. The wet/dry sandpaper actually provides a bit rigidity to the string thus making it easier to control the shape of your string slot.
You may need to experiment with string gauge and paper combination to get the appropriate thickness, but my 1500 measures .007" which is perfect!

Also, nothing wrong with your playing! Nice note choice.

I really like your headstock design too. I hadn't noticed it before. Looks like a shark tooth! Cool!

EDIT TO ADD:
Of course you can just continue with sanding the bottom as you've been doing. This is where using pencil lead on the bottom to monitor your progress and keeping it even.

[bassdude]

Love everything about this build. Beautiful spalted top, unique headstock shape, sweet tones & nice playing. Great job Michel!

Peter