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Thread: Build #2 - PSH-1 (Redux)

  1. #1
    Member dbeltrami's Avatar
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    Build #2 - PSH-1 (Redux)

    Re-starting a Build Diary for my second build which is a PSH-1 kit from PBG.

    PBG were awesome in their customer support and service. I took their advice in not going with a replacement of my custom order rather taking one of the standard PSH-1 kits they had in stock. They picked out a very nice expression as well - I can barely see any glue spots with the naked eye (just one so far); the maple veneer looks very nice; the basswood body does look good - not as nice as the mahogany on my custom order but perfectly acceptable; the neck and fretboard look great too with the headstock shape a much nicer profile than the very elongated/pointy one on my previous kit.

    My original design ideas are the same.remains the same as for the original kit. I'll use a two-tone (chrome and gold) style for the hardware, in the same style as the PRS SE Hollowbody II. I have purchased some Tonerider alnico II pickups, new pots, switch and locking machine heads.

    I just need to do something about the truss rod cover as the standard black plastic trapezoid one is not ideal. This may be an opportunity for some unique design and handcraft

    All in all, I'm very happy. I'll wait for my replacement bridge to arrive before doing a mock assembly and checking the neck angle, bridge locattion, etc.

    In the meantime, here are a few shots of the kit body and neck.

    Just one question for the forum: The standard kit has white binding. My pickup surrounds and toggle switch knob are both cream in colour. Does anyone have any suggestions for how to tint/stain/recolour white binding?

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    Last edited by dbeltrami; 06-03-2022 at 05:27 PM.
    ---------------------------
    First build: TLA-1F
    Second Build: PSH-1

  2. #2
    Member XP Rider's Avatar
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    Looks like you are on your way. You can find quite a selection of truss rod covers at www.thaliacapos.com. If they don't have your solution, you might find some good ideas. Good luck.

  3. #3
    Overlord of Music McCreed's Avatar
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    That's good outcome, even if it's not what you originally intended.

    I'll throw two things out there for your consideration. (both pertaining to upper fret access)

    1) A scallop in the bottom cut-away on the front (like genuine PRS)
    2) Reshaping the back area where the body and heel of the neck join.

    Just one or the other will make a difference, but I think doing both would provide the best result.
    I added the scallop on mine much later after it was finished and it made a big difference, but if I were starting from scratch again, I would have reshaped the back as well.

    The standard neck join is quite a square, stepped kind of design. Not ideal IMO.

    Here's a link to my PRS-1TS showing before & after scalloping.
    Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...

  4. #4
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    There is no easy and reliable way to colour the binding that I know of, short of painting it. Stain is unlikely to be taken up much except in the micro cracks that exist in the binding especially on the tighter bends, and that’s not a good look. I’d suggest using an amber tinted lacquer or a slightly yellow/amber finish like TruOil, which will take the edge off the white and bring it nearer the cream. They’ll never match exactly, but rarely do on big name guitars either.

    Alternatively you could look for white pickup rings and toggle switch surround. They don’t cost much.

  5. #5
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    If you can live with black, it’s easy enough to use a file and sandpaper to reshape the ends of the trussrod cover into something rounder. Or you could shape your own from a bit of pickguard material. Or as XP Rider says, look online. There are normally more local offerings available on Amazon and eBay, as well as the odd specialist supplier.

    Just note that you’ll need a 3-hole truss rod, not a 2-hole one, as there’s no wood at the nut end of the truss rod channel to screw into on the Pit Bull kit necks.

  6. #6
    Member dbeltrami's Avatar
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    Thanks McCreed, Your PRS guitar looks awesome.

    How did you go about creating the scallop and what did you do to make sure the binding had a good clean edge?
    I'm not sure I'm up to something like that but I have a friend who is pretty handy with wood and may ask him if he thinks we could manage it.

    Do you have a photo of what you did on the back?
    ---------------------------
    First build: TLA-1F
    Second Build: PSH-1

  7. #7
    Member dbeltrami's Avatar
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    Thanks Simon.

    I'll see how it all looks with a mock build first. Given the guitar body is going to be a black/chacoal I am thinking that the white binding is going to stand out too much.

    I was wondering if i gave it a very light sand with some fine sandpaper it may then take a airbrushed tinted laquer. I know I won't be able to get it to match the cream pickup surrounds but just need to get the "whiteness" out of it!

    Thanks for the tip on the trussrod cover holes. I'm thinking I may craft my own but will also check out the site that XP Rider suggested.
    ---------------------------
    First build: TLA-1F
    Second Build: PSH-1

  8. #8
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    It will certainly take a tinted lacquer, but you'll have to very carefully mask the body up to stop the lacquer from getting onto the body. Even with a dark finish, a thin band of tinted lacquer on the dark wood around the edge will give a different look to it unless the lacquer is applied all over the guitar.

  9. #9
    Member dbeltrami's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simon Barden View Post
    It will certainly take a tinted lacquer, but you'll have to very carefully mask the body up to stop the lacquer from getting onto the body. Even with a dark finish, a thin band of tinted lacquer on the dark wood around the edge will give a different look to it unless the lacquer is applied all over the guitar.
    Yes, I'll have to think about that and get some quality masking tape. To complicate matters, the f-holes have binding as well. Not sure how would handle that given the binding is on the side and masking the top will require some very accurate work.

    Luckily I have plenty of time to think through this...
    ---------------------------
    First build: TLA-1F
    Second Build: PSH-1

  10. #10
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    I’ve used 3M vinyl pinstriping tape (3mm wide)when I masked off the binding to paint it on my ES-1 build. That’s very flexible and bends round all but the tightest curves well. There were some section on f-holes where I just cut out angled bits of tape and stuck them on and then used short sections of tape as well as long ones. Then wider masking tape over the edges of the thin stuff.

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