Build #2 - PSH

[dbeltrami]

Hi everyone,

Starting a build diary for my second build which will be a PBG PSH-1 semi-hollowbody.

I ordered this kit, with some customisations in June 2021. I wanted a Mahogany body, binding on both sides, f-holes in the syle of a GPR-1 and a quilted maple veneer top.

As you know, global supply chains are a bit of a mess so that deplayed what would have already been a long lead time for a custom order and I finally received the kit on Christmas eve!

It was a bit of a disspointment. The quilted top is there - but quite a few marks on it and glue spots everywhere including on the sides of the body. I *think* the body is Mahogany but it is is awfully light and I suspect it is the standard basswood. The double-binding was not provided and the f-holes were not customised. To top it off, the standard "maple" neck does not look anything like maple to me.

PBG gave me a refund for the customisations not provided, which was nice, but I would have to say that this kit is nowhere near the quality of the TL-1 kit I used in my first build (and that had its issues with glue spots, misaligned holes, and other fiddly things).

Regardless, I am soldiering on as I think I will learn quite a bit about building as I come across each issue. I ordered both a chrome and gold set of hardware as I am going to mix and match things for a unique look. This may have been a waste of time as the standard hardware is pretty much junk but I figured I would at least see what it looks like first before aquiring better quality parts as replacements. I will definitely be swapping out the pickups, pots, toggle switch.

For example, I am using the chrome wraparound bridge with the gold bridge pins (if anyone can tell me how to remove the bridge screws so I can swap out the chrome saddles for the gold saddles that would be most appreciated!); chrome machine heads with gold tuning buttons; etc.

Lastly, I am avoiding the Dingo Tone stains this time around. While I got good results using the natural neck stain kit on my TL-1 and ok results using the natural stain on the body, the Bondi Blue kit I used on my flamed maple top was a disaster. When it finally cured (and to be honest its probably still not fully cured) it was months later and I think by then I had done so much work on it with sanding, polishing and waxing that I had probably ruined it. It looks ok now but it is no longer blue - more a ocean green colour :-).

So this time around I am using a stain set from TLC Guitar Goods. Will see how this goes.

I have read through the PSH Guitar Build diarys from @vivek_rc and @mrpearson. These have been most helpful and I am eagerly awaiting the next posts on both these threads.

At this point in time, I think my focus needs to be on how best to deal with the glue spots and to ensure that the neck angle is correct for a good action. These seemed to be biggest issues for both vivek_rc and mrpearson to manage.

So I am going to take my time on this one and will start to post some pictures. If anyone would like to throw some advice my way I am all ears!

Cheers... db

[McCreed]

Welcome back db.
Disappointing to hear about the quality and missing custom specifications. There seems to a lot issues with the PSH kits recently.

The two recent threads you mentioned are good (bad? ) examples and good place for you to start!

Also, good call deciding not to use Dingo Tone. That stuff is just inviting trouble IMO.

[vivek_rc]

Hey DB,

Welcome,

I think checking the neck angle and action would be a good place to start in my opinion. You most likely need to make or buy a shim so that you can get the action very low. You might even want to get a new bridge, which both myself and mrpearce did. I would get that sorted first and then work on the glue removal, sanding staining etc.

As for the glue spots, hopefully you get lucky and have minimal. Try using some warm water to remove them, the glue is water based, and warm water seems to remove them better that Goof off, which is acetone based.

Also can you show a photo of the screws you’re trying to remove from the bridge?

[dbeltrami]

Thanks @vivek_rc,

Will defintiely start with the glue spots first and try the warm water method. Then I think I'll take my time with sanding and getting the neck sorted out.

Re the bridge, I am trying to work out out to remove the saddles and saddle screws. Below is a picture of the chrome one with the gold pins. How do I get the screws out so I can remove the saddles?



The gold version of the bridge has a different type of screw and an openingfor it to slot into:



Thanks... db

[mrpearson]

Hey there.

Agree with Vivek, get your neck angle sorted first as the guitar has to be playable. [mention]Simon Barden [/mention] shim instructions on my build diary are super easy to follow. I made a 1.5mm high shim (out of a solid block of pine as I couldn’t get maple and my basswood attempt failed as the wood was too soft) which is the equivalent to a stewmac 1 degree shim that they recommend for a tunomatic bridge.

I also recessed the bridge post bushings as well which gave me a few more mm. Also recessing the edges of the bushing looks better and is the same as what prs does.

With my bridged decked and a new lower nut I can achieve a lower setup action than my real prs setup by a professional luthier and plays great imho. You can probably make a 2mm shim and get a bit more adjustability to be on the safe side.

Now onto glue stains. This has been painful!!!! There are 2 types to deal with. 1) The obvious white stains around bindings and the veneer join. These show up with a wipe of turps and are easily removed with goof off and a bit of brushing. 2) the veneer glue stains which are much harder to see and didn’t show up with the turps wipe (I checked 2-3 times) after seeing vivek’s issues around the bottom edge of his veneer. I had these down the right hand side and couldn’t budge these with goof off. The warm water suggestion from Vivek is what you need to consider here but be careful as water can easily lift your veneer.

In the end I have a hidden these with my minor burst creating using Japan brown fw proof tint over the dingo tone. Personally I am pretty happy with the result (better than my original plan) as originally I wasn’t confident in producing a burst but was forced into it.

In regards to dingo tone I had no issues with it drying but didn’t use the top coat. The trick with the intensifier coat is you need to follow the instructions and use steel wool to rub it back exposing the intended finish ( I guess it is reverse approach to a dark stain sanded back and then a lighter top coat). As it was my first guitar I found it pretty forgiving to work with and didn’t require any sanding of the veneer. Vivek took a different approach and has also got a pretty cool finish.

Other tips

- order a new bridge. The kit one is too high under any circumstances unless you build the mother of all shims.

- order locking bridge posts. This seems to be an issue for any wrap around bridge guitar

- the scale length is pretty much spot on. I ended up inserting a 2mm spacer just to give my pickup Mount a bit more space but not needed.

- where the sides bend around the horns you may find your stain doesn’t take so plan on some lighter patches. Maybe other builders have tips here but even with rougher sand paper I couldn’t get stain to take.

- I had few issues on the neck where the maple appears to be cracked and stain would not take. I am accepting that the kit cost $250 and I cannot expect a custom shop finish.

- sand your binding smooth, polish it and tape it up to keep it clean. I had to refinish the edges a number of times to get a clean line (even then it’s not perfect).

My build updates will be pretty benign for the next 2 weeks as just layering on truoil which is really bringing the figure on the maple to life. (See latest pic) I need to bury a lot of grain which was accentuated in the veneer when trying to rub out glue spots.


Whilst the kit is not prefect I am pretty impressed for what it is for $250 and I am super impressed with the customer service from pitbull. The guys there are awesome!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[McCreed]

Also can you show a photo of the screws you’re trying to remove from the bridge?

Yes, I'm unfamiliar with how the kit wrap-arounds are assembled, and there are different ways that intonation screws are terminated within the bridge. Some have wee tiny nuts, some C clips, or other types of retainer. A pic of the end of the intonation screws should tell us.

Just a note on swapping the tuner buttons. I have found a great variation in size and shape the shafts that buttons fit on to between manufacturers. Especially among MIC tuners. They all mostly employ a D shaft, but the diameter, length and internal thread for the retainer screw is not universal. This applies to the tuner buttons as well. There is no one size fits all.

Even if you bought two sets (one chrome, one gold) from PBG, they may well have come from two different factories and may be different specs. I can't say with certainty that this will be the case with the tuners you ordered, but I thought it worth mentioning.

[McCreed]

Guess I'm behind the pack on this one...

Just to reiterate my pervious post, a photo of the "back side" of the chrome bridge should show more on what is required to remove the saddles. The gold one, the intonation screws will just prise out once the saddle moved to about the middle of travel. There's no retainer wire like on some traditional TOM's.

The intonation screw threads are hopefully the same. (commonly M2.5 from memory*)

*Edit: for import/metric bridges - M2.5 with a thread pitch of .45mm

[dbeltrami]

Hi McCreed,

The back is totally sealed - no access to the screws.
I'll have a go at the gold one, as you suggested, to see if I can getthe saddles out of that

The consensus seems to be that I should lose the kit bridge and get a new, lower-profiled one. So I'll probably do that. Just wondering whether a pre-set/compensated version or a fully adjustable one would be the best way forward.

[dbeltrami]

Thanks for all of the advice. Your build is looking awesome.

[McCreed]

Just wondering whether a pre-set/compensated version or a fully adjustable one would be teh best way forward.

FWIW I had a PRS SE Single cut that had a compensated wrap-around tail piece and its intonation was spot-on. There is some adjustment to the fixed ones via grub screws against the mounting posts.
You can also get ones with adjustable G & B saddle only. Lots of options... decisions, decisions...