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Thread: TD's Scratchy Thinline

  1. #71
    Mentor Trevor Davies's Avatar
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    Finally got around to putting CA glue into the knot holes of the pinewood tele, and sanded them back with 180 g paper. Then stained the neck and body with FW Old Baltic stain.
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    PitBull Builds: FVB-4, LP-1SS, FBM-1, AG-2, TB-4, SSCM-1, TLA-1, TL-1TB, STA-1HT, DSCM-1 Truckster, ST-1, STA-1, MBM-1.

    Scratch Builds: Pine Explorer, Axe Bass, Mr Scary, Scratchy Tele's.

    The little voices in my head keep telling me "build more guitars"

  2. #72
    Mentor Trevor Davies's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simon Barden View Post
    For decal binding, you’d have to print the decals to match the outline exactly, which wouldn’t be easy. The decal itself would need cutting to follow the outline, leaving a very long and thin decal to slide off the paper and not crease or fold. It could be done, but you’d probably need a few tries to get it right.

    Thinline teles have thin binding, not the thicker striped stuff, so you could just mask and spray some white faux binding on.
    Sorry, I missed this one Simon.
    I was thinking of trying 6 mm auto pin strip decal. I think the thin thickness would be fine.
    PitBull Builds: FVB-4, LP-1SS, FBM-1, AG-2, TB-4, SSCM-1, TLA-1, TL-1TB, STA-1HT, DSCM-1 Truckster, ST-1, STA-1, MBM-1.

    Scratch Builds: Pine Explorer, Axe Bass, Mr Scary, Scratchy Tele's.

    The little voices in my head keep telling me "build more guitars"

  3. #73
    Overlord of Music McCreed's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trevor Davies View Post
    Finally got around to putting CA glue into the knot holes of the pinewood tele, and sanded them back with 180 g paper. Then stained the neck and body with FW Old Baltic stain.
    How did the stain react with the CA? Does it take up any stain or repel it?
    It probably doesn't matter here if you're filling knot holes, as the CA will project (FLOABW) the colour underneath it like a finish repair using drop-filling.

    That will look cool with a nice gloss.
    Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...

  4. #74
    Mentor Trevor Davies's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by McCreed View Post
    How did the stain react with the CA? Does it take up any stain or repel it?
    It probably doesn't matter here if you're filling knot holes, as the CA will project (FLOABW) the colour underneath it like a finish repair using drop-filling.

    That will look cool with a nice gloss.
    The stain is repelled by the CA.

    Luckily all the knot holes were very dark/black in colour and will be darker than the stained areas. I had to ensure all the CA was well sanded back on the neighbouring areas so as to avoid lighter stained spots. So best to use thicker CA so as to avoid runs (Note to self!).

    I was in a bit of a quandary about the order I needed to follow - either
    1. fill with CA, sand, stain,
    2. stain, fill with CA, sand, restain, or
    3. stain, top coats, fill holes with CA, sand (But would probably get sand through!), more top coats.

    Next time (or if using a darker stain, or if there are lighter knot holes) I think I would go method 2!
    PitBull Builds: FVB-4, LP-1SS, FBM-1, AG-2, TB-4, SSCM-1, TLA-1, TL-1TB, STA-1HT, DSCM-1 Truckster, ST-1, STA-1, MBM-1.

    Scratch Builds: Pine Explorer, Axe Bass, Mr Scary, Scratchy Tele's.

    The little voices in my head keep telling me "build more guitars"

  5. #75
    Overlord of Music McCreed's Avatar
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    My inclination would have been option 1 also.

    As for option 3, if you first scrape the CA level with a single edge razor, and then use the strip-sanding method, you can avoid sand-throughs. I've banged on about these techniques in a number of threads here
    Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...

  6. #76
    Mentor Trevor Davies's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by McCreed View Post
    My inclination would have been option 1 also.

    As for option 3, if you first scrape the CA level with a single edge razor, and then use the strip-sanding method, you can avoid sand-throughs. I've banged on about these techniques in a number of threads here
    Yes, I have used this razor/strip sanding technique with my STA-1HT after I put a small dent in the back. If I look carefully I can still see the CA area as there must be slight difference in optical density of the CA compared to Tru-oil! I have to look hard though.
    PitBull Builds: FVB-4, LP-1SS, FBM-1, AG-2, TB-4, SSCM-1, TLA-1, TL-1TB, STA-1HT, DSCM-1 Truckster, ST-1, STA-1, MBM-1.

    Scratch Builds: Pine Explorer, Axe Bass, Mr Scary, Scratchy Tele's.

    The little voices in my head keep telling me "build more guitars"

  7. #77
    Overlord of Music McCreed's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Trevor Davies View Post
    Yes, I have used this razor/strip sanding technique with my STA-1HT after I put a small dent in the back. If I look carefully I can still see the CA area as there must be slight difference in optical density of the CA compared to Tru-oil! I have to look hard though.
    Yeah, I imagine you're right about that. I've only done CA drop-fills on factory poly finishes (most likely polyester).
    Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...

  8. #78
    Mentor Trevor Davies's Avatar
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    Lots of tru-oiling. They are starting to get a nice gloss.
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    PitBull Builds: FVB-4, LP-1SS, FBM-1, AG-2, TB-4, SSCM-1, TLA-1, TL-1TB, STA-1HT, DSCM-1 Truckster, ST-1, STA-1, MBM-1.

    Scratch Builds: Pine Explorer, Axe Bass, Mr Scary, Scratchy Tele's.

    The little voices in my head keep telling me "build more guitars"

  9. #79
    Overlord of Music McCreed's Avatar
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    Nice! I forgot about the thinline!

    What's your tally system on the masking tape? Coats of Tru Oil?

    I'm surprised you don't reshape your heels to transition closer to the pocket.
    Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...

  10. #80
    Mentor Trevor Davies's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by McCreed View Post
    Nice! I forgot about the thinline!

    What's your tally system on the masking tape? Coats of Tru Oil?

    I'm surprised you don't reshape your heels to transition closer to the pocket.
    Yes the masking tape tally is the tru-oil coats. The solid body has been given 2 painted coats, 3 wipe-on coats, then rubbed back with 600 g etc.

    AS for the heel transition - I have not felt the need. I will make it a priority for a future build .
    PitBull Builds: FVB-4, LP-1SS, FBM-1, AG-2, TB-4, SSCM-1, TLA-1, TL-1TB, STA-1HT, DSCM-1 Truckster, ST-1, STA-1, MBM-1.

    Scratch Builds: Pine Explorer, Axe Bass, Mr Scary, Scratchy Tele's.

    The little voices in my head keep telling me "build more guitars"

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