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Thread: DTL-1SB First build

  1. #71
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    Thanks again McCreed

    Moved forward again on this today as the extra copper tape finally arrived.

    Shielding added - there is copper tape running between cavities: Neck >> Control and Bridge >> control.
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    I have layed out the wiring as below and would like to check please:

    Q1. How do I get the bridge PUP wire to connect to both the braided to back of volume pot and the center to the 3 way switch lug - can it be added to the switch housing lug that is also earthed to the back of volue pot?

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    Q2. Have I allocated the braided jack earth wire to the correct jack lug?
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    Q3. When running the earth wire back to the bridge plate should it the exposed wire touch the copper foil?

    Thanks in advance!

    D

  2. #72
    Overlord of Music McCreed's Avatar
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    Q2. Have I allocated the braided jack earth wire to the correct jack lug?
    No, you have them reversed. (presuming the other end is soldered to the pot casing - I can't tell in the other photo)

    Q3. When running the earth wire back to the bridge plate should it the exposed wire touch the copper foil?
    As long as the bridge plate is making contact with both the wire and shielding tape, there should continuity. However, it doesn't take much tape to run from the cavity to where the bare ground wire will be located just be sure.
    Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...

  3. #73
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    Thanks McCreed

  4. Liked by: McCreed

  5. #74
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    Tele wiring trauma

    Hi all

    I have wired up the electrics today on the thinline tele following the diagram below.


    On testing the PUPs with a screw driver I can hear:

    • Neck Position: Noise from both bridge and neck PUP
    • Middle Position: Noise from both bridge and neck PUP
    • Bridge Position: Noise from both bridge and neck PUP


    So back to an earlier question - there is a jumper wire on my kit 3 way switch below - is this cause of the problem and if so can I just remove? Or is it somethig else?

    Thanks

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    Last edited by DeanCraig; 01-04-2022 at 05:37 AM.

  6. #75
    Overlord of Music McCreed's Avatar
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    Having a closer look at things, I would say yes. Just snip that wire and see if things work correctly then. (if not post a new pic of your switch wiring and we can try and sort it)

    When you said previously that the switch came that way from the factory, I thought it was possible they had changed the configuration and it was something I'd not seen before.
    But if you compare it to my photo, that black jumper is a bridge between the positive leads from both pickups, so creating an "always on" kind of circuit.
    Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...

  7. #76
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    Thanks McCreed that has fixed it

  8. #77
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    My first build is done!

    Thanks to everyone that has given me advice and answered my many questions. I only made a few mistakes that I am awere of!

    Build
    • Kit: DTL-1SB with Grover Tuners and Bone nut
    • Finish: Rear stained Japanese Brown then 24+ Tru Oil coats applied on all surfaces


    Final Questions
    • I am thinking of replacing the the wiring and PUPs/Switches/Pots. How much of a lift will I get from Tonerider Hot Classics?
    • I am getting a big volume drop in the middle position - is this a wiring issue?



    Thanks

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  9. #78
    Mentor Trevor Davies's Avatar
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    Looks great Dean, well done.

    Sorry, but I cannot help with the classics - but I'm thinking of getting a set for my current build.

    For the big volume drop in the middle position I would have thought that one of the pups is wired the wrong way!
    PitBull Builds: FVB-4, LP-1SS, FBM-1, AG-2, TB-4, SSCM-1, TLA-1, TL-1TB, STA-1HT, DSCM-1 Truckster, ST-1, STA-1, MBM-1.

    Scratch Builds: Pine Explorer, Axe Bass, Mr Scary, Scratchy Tele's.

    The little voices in my head keep telling me "build more guitars"

  10. #79
    Overlord of Music McCreed's Avatar
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    Final Questions
    I am thinking of replacing the the wiring and PUPs/Switches/Pots. How much of a lift will I get from Tonerider Hot Classics?
    I am getting a big volume drop in the middle position - is this a wiring issue?
    I've never used the kit pickups so can't comment on what they sound like. However, I have had two sets of (still got 1 somewhere) of the Tele Hot Classics and can say they sound great. All in all I don't think you can go wrong with Toneriders for value for money. Despite not hearing the kit set, I would go out on a limb and say the TR's would sound noticeably better.


    As for the volume drop in position 2, a slight drop is normal with passive pickups wired in parallel (happens with strats in 2 & 4 positions). Not hearing what you're hearing makes it hard for me to say whether it's "normal" drop or not. A slight drop to me might be a big drop to you.

    That said, two things I would look at are that the pickups may be out of phase, or the switch is wonky.
    Try swapping the hot and ground wires on one of the pickups (doesn't matter which one) and see if that fixes it.
    If not, you might try replacing the switch.

    Report back and let us know!

    Oh, and guitar looks great too!
    Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...

  11. #80
    Overlord of Music dave.king1's Avatar
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    For mine, Hot Classics are fairly close to Texas Specials so hot Tele tones.

    I have a set in my Tuff Dog tribute and although I can get some tones I like I feel they are a bit too hot.

    I have Blackguard spec pups in my Thinline and am thinking of dropping the standard Thinline pups in the Tuff Dog to make it a bit less hot and spikey

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