DTL-1SB First build

[Trevor Davies]

The checking continues so I have another few questions please before I begin.

1. The pots with 2 x 2 different nuts and washers. I assume the washer goes over the pickguard then the smaller nut then tightens down before adding the control knobs. But where does the bigger loose fitting nut go? Between pickguard and pot?
   
   
2. To attach the 3 way switch should I be using the wood screw in picture - all the after market switches seem to have mini bolt?
   
   
3. Finaly should I stick with the pic guard on my first build I can get it aligned with the bridge, neck pup and control cavities with only a small shave off the LHS of where it sits next to the neck circled - any traps with this approach?
   

Thanks again

Attachment 42204 Attachment 42205

Hi Dean,

for 1) - yes. The lower nut allows for adjustment of the height of the pot on the pickguard material.
2) - I would not think a wood screw would work, I would have expected a bolt. Others may know more about this!
3) - I think a small shave would be fine. I have sanded (and filed, scraped) guards around the neck edges to get a good fit. With sanding I normally use paper around a block of wood to keep a straight edge. Take it easy, and keep checking to ensure you do not take off too much.

[DeanCraig]

Hi I can get an ebay 34.2 mm wide tele control panel - assuming I can get the pots and switch to fit the rout do you think 2mm is enugh overlap on each of the sides (the cavity is 30mm wide) ?

Re making my own that is worth considering thanks - I do not have a router so not sure I could pull off a beveled pickguard design - is it possible to do with minimal tools?

Thanks

[DeanCraig]

THanks Trevor have hit pitbull up on this one.

[McCreed]

Re making my own that is worth considering thanks - I do not have a router so not sure I could pull off a beveled pickguard design - is it possible to do with minimal tools?

Completely doable without a router or power tools at all. Coping saw, files and a razor blade or utility knife blade and you can just about anything.

[DeanCraig]

Thanks again Trevor

Slowly getting toward the actual start line with this project - better to cut once ....

My thinking now for the finish now is as follows - noticed TO is hard to find except online:

• Spalt Front: Tru Oil with Feast and Watson gloss varnish - on the assumptiont this will give grain some definition and protect it
• Rear: Grain fill then stained dark brown with Feast and Watson with satin varnish

My questions for clarification please:

• Neck: I am planning to apply tru oil only - is this ok?
• Maple fret board: Can I just tru oil this lightly or is another product prefered?
• I assume the front varnish over tru oil will need to be oil based?
• On the back I am after a satin finish - can I just TO it with some stain and not varnish? ie adequate protection?

Thanks in advance

[Trevor Davies]

Thanks again Trevor

Slowly getting toward the actual start line with this project - better to cut once ....

My thinking now for the finish now is as follows - noticed TO is hard to find except online:

• Spalt Front: Tru Oil with Feast and Watson gloss varnish - on the assumptiont this will give grain some definition and protect it
• Rear: Grain fill then stained dark brown with Feast and Watson with satin varnish

My questions for clarification please:

• Neck: I am planning to apply tru oil only - is this ok?
• Maple fret board: Can I just tru oil this lightly or is another product prefered?
• I assume the front varnish over tru oil will need to be oil based?
• On the back I am after a satin finish - can I just TO it with some stain and not varnish? ie adequate protection?

Thanks in advance

Tru-oiling the neck is fine. Number of coats could be anywhere from about 4 to 30+ depending on the gloss you want. I normally do 10+.
Tru-oiling the maple fretboard is fine - once again 4 to .... In fact I did a post on this this year - se https://www.buildyourownguitar.com.a...ad.php?t=11506.

I'm doing a maple fretboard at the moment and have just finished my 4th and final coat. I intend to do a lot more on the neck!

"I assume the front varnish over tru oil will need to be oil based?" - sorry not sure. I just do lots of TO coats until I'm happy with how glossy it is.

"On the back I am after a satin finish - can I just TO it with some stain and not varnish? ie adequate protection?" Yes - the TO can be the final top coats.

I hope this helps.

[DeanCraig]

Outstanding thanks for that!

I was not planning on filling the spalt top - is that ok with just TO?
On the back the plan was to fill the grain

Thanks

[Trevor Davies]

Outstanding thanks for that!

I was not planning on filling the spalt top - is that ok with just TO?
On the back the plan was to fill the grain

Thanks

I did not fill the spalted top on my LP-1ss. I did use CA glue on a couple of little holes just to build up the depth a bit faster. Others have used a grain fill. Really a personal choice.

[McCreed]

On the back I am after a satin finish - can I just TO it with some stain and not varnish? ie adequate protection?

I'll put in my 2¢ worth...

If you want a satin finish and feel with Tru Oil, you will need to apply enough coats so that you can rub it back* without going through to the bare wood again.
*This can be done with a fine grit sandpaper (600-800) or my recommendation is synthetic sanding pads (sometimes referred to as "synthetic steel wool") I DO NOT RECOMMEND using actual steel wool! (for a host of reasons I won't go into now).

The thing about this method, is it does not really create a satin finish. It gives a satin "feel", but it is actually just a "de-glossed" finish.
If you want a real satin look and feel, I would suggest applying a wipe-on satin poly instead.

[Johnny Bravo]

I need to buy a coping saw and the ones that are available at Mitre10 and Bunnings have very poor reviews.

Can anyone make a suggestion re: getting something of reasonable quality?