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Thread: PSH-1 Build

  1. #121

    PSH-1 Build

    So finally got around to gluing in the neck! My wipe on poly experience wasn’t very good, never got a smooth finish, in the end I applied a few layers, sanded it level and sprays on a few coats. In between had a few accident where while the body was hanging to dry it fell onto a concrete floor, scraping up the sides and dented the veneer near the bridge pickup, had to do some restorations which came out ok! Stew Mac restoration and repair YouTube videos are pretty good! Steep earning curve. Have had enough of working on the finish, decided to just glue on the neck and complete the build, been procrastinating too much on it!

    Last edited by vivek_rc; 26-02-2022 at 09:50 AM.

  2. #122
    Quote Originally Posted by vivek_rc View Post
    So finally got around to gluing in the neck! My wipe on poly experience wasn’t very good, never got a smooth finish, in the end I applied a few layers, sanded it level and sprays on a few coats. In between had a few accident where while the body was hanging to dry it fell onto a concrete floor, scraping up the sides and dented the veneer near the bridge pickup, had to do some restorations which came out ok! Stew Mac restoration and repair YouTube videos are pretty good! Steep earning curve. Have had enough of working on the finish, decided to just glue on the neck and complete the build, been procrastinating too much on it!

    Looking nice- keen to see it finished and wired up. I know your pain. I scratched my headstock when polishing it. Must have had some grit on my cloth. Took a week to refinish it.


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  3. #123
    Hi Guys,

    Need some advice, there is a gap between the neck heel and pocket due to the shim. I want to fill it up and was wondering on fillers that would be appropriate.



    I’ve read about a mixture of shellac and saw dust, might try to make more saw dust. Anyone with experience with the timbermate wood filler? I actually for the heck of it tested a mix of the shellac and multi purpose water based filler, made a small batch and letting it dry on some test planks, it does solidify but since it didn’t mix with water I think it might be too brittle…

    Thanks

    Vivek

  4. #124
    I am thinking timbermate is your best option as you want to stain it to match your neck and hide it. If you go glue options stain won’t take.

    Also on other projects I found timbemate doesn’t shrink much and sands nicely.


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  5. #125
    Quote Originally Posted by mrpearson View Post
    I am thinking timbermate is your best option as you want to stain it to match your neck and hide it. If you go glue options stain won’t take.

    Also on other projects I found timbemate doesn’t shrink much and sands nicely.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I’ll pop into bunnings after dropping the little man at daycare and check out the timbermate colors available. There’s also these sticks that you can melt into a cracks that I’ve seen videos but I think the timbermate might be better for a big gap.

  6. #126
    If you are using the feast Wason stain it will pretty overpower any light colour. My maple neck and basswood look identical.


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  7. #127
    Actually neck joint area on
    My guitar is stained with shellac with a bit of burgundy Angelus dye mixed in, on top of a prooftint Japan black base coat…I’ve been reading about the timbermate and it may not work for me, as it would be filling areas that are covered with shellac in it and based on what I’ve read, as timbermate dries it needs to fuse with wood fibers, to form a bond. This might not work for my situation. Might go the route of making wood filler using sawdust mixed with the shellac I made, that way the color matching shouldn’t be an issue. Just need to find a way to generate a lot of sawdust.

  8. #128
    GAStronomist FrankenWashie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by vivek_rc View Post
    Actually neck joint area on
    My guitar is stained with shellac with a bit of burgundy Angelus dye mixed in, on top of a prooftint Japan black base coat…I’ve been reading about the timbermate and it may not work for me, as it would be filling areas that are covered with shellac in it and based on what I’ve read, as timbermate dries it needs to fuse with wood fibers, to form a bond. This might not work for my situation. Might go the route of making wood filler using sawdust mixed with the shellac I made, that way the color matching shouldn’t be an issue. Just need to find a way to generate a lot of sawdust.
    An angle grinder with a flap disc seems to work well for me, though you do have to then sweep it up from the bench, the floor, the walls, your hair……😉
    FrankenLab
    Hand crafting guitars, because Death Rays are expensive.


  9. #129
    Overlord of Music McCreed's Avatar
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    I can't really see the detail of the gap in that photo, but if it were me, I'd be filling it with CA.
    It dries clear and allows whatever colour is under it to come through; it can be sanded and polished; and will accept any finish you want to put over it from poly to lacquer.

    I'm only guessing at the size of the gap, but I think a medium to thick viscosity CA would be the go. It will likely require several applications to build up and fill the gap (just like doing a drop-fill).
    Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...

  10. #130
    Hi Mcreed,

    Thanks I’ve actually got some and will try it out.



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