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Thread: Build #3, MKA

  1. #11
    Mentor Andyxlh's Avatar
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    I did a flat arm bevel with a belt sander on my first TLA, as I was blending strat and Tele on that project. That ash was so hard even the belt sander took a while to cut through. The build diary is in my signature.
    The TLA with amp is even heavier than a stock TLA, but it’s still lighter than the bass I’ve been hefting for decades! 😁

  2. #12
    Overlord of Music dave.king1's Avatar
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    I've done my carves with a 100mm flap disk in an angle grinder.

    Works well and is quick but must be done with care

  3. #13
    Member XP Rider's Avatar
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    Thanks again, y'all. I'll start with a coarse half-round rasp as per McCreed, probably aiming for the more beveled Mosrite look, as per Simon. If I get really tired of rasping, I'll attack it with power tools, but if I totally screw it up, Dave and Andy, I'll be coming for you guys! (Mighty long trip, though.) If I do totally trash it, fortunately my band plays often enough to fund most of my GAS issues. In the mean time, still sanding....

  4. Liked by: Andyxlh

  5. #14
    Mentor Andyxlh's Avatar
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    Sand and rasp away! 😁

  6. #15
    Member XP Rider's Avatar
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    Finally got the neck pocket sanded out to allow a mock build. It will probably need further adjustment when the neck heel has been finished, but for now a good tight fit. Neck alignment is not perfect, but acceptable. Shaded ever so slightly to the treble side. After careful study of the exchange between Simon and McCreed in Ronafett's thread, I think the scale length is good enough for who it's for. My photos are jfif files, and not an acceptable format. If I can get something else, I'll post it.

    Questions I will need to have answered. Mounting the pickups. The routed-out body cavity includes both pickup areas. No wood under either pickup. Is the single coil just attached to the scratch plate? (?) The humbucker back plate has holes at the four corners, but no holes are in the scratch plate (and no wood beneath where the screws would go thru). The two screws midway on the sides of the humbucker back plate line up with 2 holes in the scratch plate. Do I remove them and re-assemble the PU, attached to the scratch plate? Or do I need to glue some wood pieces into the body cavity to attach pickups to? Hope that makes sense. I don't need answers right now, but down the road for certain. Thanks in advance.

  7. #16
    Overlord of Music McCreed's Avatar
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    Both pickups will mount to the pickguard. I'm not sure why the HB came with a mounting ring. Probably just the way they leave the factory. The HB will mount to the pickguard the same way it is to the mounting ring, one screw at the bass end and one screw at the treble end. Screw through the pickguard; spring over the screw; screw into the little tab on the pickup with the hole in it.
    Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...

  8. #17
    Member XP Rider's Avatar
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    Still seems weird and kind of unstable, but easy. Thanks, McCreed.

    Wow. Found an easy conversion of jfif to jpeg that even e dummy can do. So here is the mock build. Click image for larger version. 

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  9. #18
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    It's really no more unstable than using a pickup ring!

    All looks good with everything lining up nicely.

  10. #19
    Mentor dozymuppet's Avatar
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    Is it just me, or does the pick guard and bridge pickup need to be tilted to the left to align under the strings?

    Sent from my Pixel 4 using Tapatalk

  11. #20
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    As bits are just sat on top rather than installed correctly through the pickguard holes, I wouldn't go by the photos as to any possible alignment issues. A s the pickups and controls all fix to the pickguard, I'm sure XP Rider will align the pickguard so everything lines up as one of the last things he does on the build.

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