Page 4 of 5 FirstFirst ... 2 3 4 5 LastLast
Results 31 to 40 of 47

Thread: The DPZ-4 Sinosauropteryx Bass Build

  1. #31
    Mentor Andyxlh's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    1,206
    You could stain it with feast Watson black Japan. That won’t bleed through

  2. #32
    Member lunaticds's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2021
    Location
    Ballarat, Vic
    Posts
    146
    Quote Originally Posted by Andyxlh View Post
    You could stain it with feast Watson black Japan. That won’t bleed through
    Black Japan.. that brings back memories of stripping floor boards!

    Heh, I was hoping to to avoid spending any more money on this build. I'll have to think about it some more. I do have a maple off cut still I can try some black stump on and just see how it'll bleed and decide from there.

    The pre-drilled machine head holes are now filled and the back of the headstock sanded back. By no means perfect, but about as good as I can expect considering.

  3. #33
    Member lunaticds's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2021
    Location
    Ballarat, Vic
    Posts
    146
    I was thinking earlier whether or not I shouldn't just order a fretless neck and go right out there? That'd really make it something different. If nothing else, it'd save me having to level the damned frets and polish them :P

  4. #34
    Mentor Andyxlh's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    1,206
    But you will need to play fretless then too….. way to complex for me anyway

  5. #35
    Member lunaticds's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2021
    Location
    Ballarat, Vic
    Posts
    146
    Quote Originally Posted by Andyxlh View Post
    But you will need to play fretless then too….. way to complex for me anyway
    Ha! Seems like a fun thing to try! I've already got 3 basses, and I'm struggling to play them all at once :P

  6. #36
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Reading, UK
    Posts
    10,547
    Ha!

    The Pit Bull fretless necks have side dots in the normal fretted neck locations, and no fret position markers, so there's a fair bit of work to do to add your own if you feel the need and remove the existing side dots. But if you've never played fretless, then you my be glad of some positioning help. It's definitely easier to work on the frets than do all that marking work. And you may not need to level the frets. Always worth checking on how level they are to begin with than to simply do it. And even a full fret level, reprofile and polish shouldn't take more than 90 minutes with standard fret material.

  7. #37
    Member lunaticds's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2021
    Location
    Ballarat, Vic
    Posts
    146
    I wound up ordering the PBG fretless neck earlier. I'll survive with the side dots.. I haven't been able to see frets when I'm standing up playing for the past 20 years, so the side dots will do me. Will have to order some flats now and see how I go with those. If I'm gonna do something different, I might as well do something completely different.

    I'll keep the kit neck. I might find a body floating around at some point that I can stick it on. None of the PBG necks have given me much grief - just some random frets a bit high here and there, so no major drama sorting it out when I do. Just one less thing to do on this build now (off set by having to cut another headstock lol).

  8. #38
    I seem to recall PB's resident low end maestro advocating "removing the speed bumps" on fretted necks. <shrug> I like my training wheels.

  9. #39
    Overlord of Music fender3x's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Miami, FL, USA
    Posts
    2,201
    You may want to get a 12" radius block to make sure the fingerboard is completely flat. I got at KAISH 200 mm block from Amazon relatively cheap that seems quite good FWIW.

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk

  10. #40
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Reading, UK
    Posts
    10,547
    Well, completely flat and round at the same time.

    I've used a radius block on a couple of fingerboards after removing the frets and you'd be surprised at how poorly radiused some are.

    If you do want fret markers on a fretless neck, then it can often be easier (given relatively basic skill and tool levels) to get a fretted neck and fill in the slots with a contrasting coloured hard filler e.g. coloured epoxy, to give you the markers, hence Rabbit's comments.

Page 4 of 5 FirstFirst ... 2 3 4 5 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •