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Thread: The DPZ-4 Sinosauropteryx Bass Build

  1. #1
    Member lunaticds's Avatar
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    The DPZ-4 Sinosauropteryx Bass Build

    So, I've ordered the DPZ-4 "Zebra Wood" P Bass style kit (currently back ordered) - yet another for my JurassicAxe collection.
    https://www.pitbullguitars.com/shop/...bra-wood-copy/
    The plan at this stage:
    Rosewood fretboard
    Black hardware, so it should come with a black pick guard. Would have preferred it didn't have such Fenderisms but it is what it is.

    Upgrades: Immediately - none. I'll probably replace the kit pickups before it's finished and the tuners will get replaced. I'll stick with passive. Not sure if the Toneriders are good all rounders or if I should spend the money on something like some SD quarter pounders or the like. Just not this week. I just replaced the second fridge that keeps my drinks cool and hides the delivery from the butcher when I'm planning on firing up the smoker, but I digress. The nut will become tusq. I really can't take to the colour of bone nuts.

    Colour: I'm planning on trying some Colortone on it. I've got enough Green and Red Mahogany coming to do the job. The only big question is which one? Until I see what this "zebra wood" looks like up close I don't entirely know which way I'll go. The green might be interesting. It's something that I'd been planning on trying with either a spalted maple or quilted top, but this "zebra wood" looks different. It might also just look ludicrous, so the red is my backup. Happy to hear some opinions on this one.
    Plan is to finish this one with some Tru-oil. I haven't enjoyed too much dealing with clear coat on the Jurassicaster build, but working with Truoil on the Thunderaptor was pretty good.

    Art: I've been prone to jamming a JurassicAxe logo somewhere on everything I've built and the guitar name on the headstock. This'll be no different. Headstock will probably be left plain maple and will somehow have "Sinosauropteryx" printed on a waterslide decal and the the JurassicAxe logo in the ball at the end of the headstock (going with a traditional Fender shape). As to whether I coat the headstock itself in TO or Poly remains to be seen. I know I can bury the decal a lot faster with the Poly, but there is the extra effort involved in getting that looking good.
    I'll make a decision about where and if i put the logo on the body once the colour is on and I can tell if it'll even be remotely visible. That'll depend a lot on how the colour interacts with the colour used to darken the wood.

  2. #2
    Mentor Andyxlh's Avatar
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    Nice idea!
    You can get rid of much of the fender pick guard, just leaving enough to mount the electronics. You can even leave the hole where the pickups go exposed, to show more of the finish and stripesÖ
    Iíd consider replacing the machine heads, Iíve had much less success with the bass than guitar ones, makes sense with the tension on them I guess. The all parts ones are well priced and work, the wilkinsons the same.
    Iím happy with the tonerider bass pickups I put in my last project, although I havenít been able to use them in anger yet. Iím used to dmarzio model P.

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    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    As the body wood is a fabricated wood and the stripes are a result of dyeing/staining in the manufacturing process, I have my doubts as to how well it will take more staining. All the builds Iíve seen so far have just put clear over the body.

    Iím wondering if the body wood is very composite-like with a lot of glue or resin holding wood fibres together, much like an engineered fretboard. In which case staining may not work well or look very patchy. You only really have the control cavity to do any test staining on, which isnít easy, but Iíd certainly give it a go.

    Iíd be tempted to use a coloured lacquer rather than a stain, as that will happily sit over the top of the wood.

  4. Liked by: Andyxlh

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    Member lunaticds's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andyxlh View Post
    Nice idea!
    You can get rid of much of the fender pick guard, just leaving enough to mount the electronics. You can even leave the hole where the pickups go exposed, to show more of the finish and stripesÖ
    Iíd consider replacing the machine heads, Iíve had much less success with the bass than guitar ones, makes sense with the tension on them I guess. The all parts ones are well priced and work, the wilkinsons the same.
    Iím happy with the tonerider bass pickups I put in my last project, although I havenít been able to use them in anger yet. Iím used to dmarzio model P.
    Yeah, thinking that guard is my plan B. Plan A might be printing something that only covers the wiring rout. Much more minimalist and much more timber showing.
    Those machine heads are definitely on the "to go" list. There are some parts I'm 30 years past skimping on, and that's one of them.
    The Toneriders I'll definitely keep in consideration then. I can't really justify pouring a grand into a $200 kit... I did that with the Thunderaptor already :P

  6. Liked by: Andyxlh

  7. #5
    Mentor Andyxlh's Avatar
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    If you want to try something else, I have been using dmarzio model p for decades. Amazing for rock, great through the Ampeg, really growl. Only $130 or so. I was nervous with the tonerider, but will see how they go, they sound good so far.

  8. #6
    Member lunaticds's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simon Barden View Post
    As the body wood is a fabricated wood and the stripes are a result of dyeing/staining in the manufacturing process, I have my doubts as to how well it will take more staining. All the builds Iíve seen so far have just put clear over the body.

    Iím wondering if the body wood is very composite-like with a lot of glue or resin holding wood fibres together, much like an engineered fretboard. In which case staining may not work well or look very patchy. You only really have the control cavity to do any test staining on, which isnít easy, but Iíd certainly give it a go.

    Iíd be tempted to use a coloured lacquer rather than a stain, as that will happily sit over the top of the wood.
    How the staining might take is something that had occurred to me. The website doesn't give a whole lot of guidance on the subject.
    I'll give the cavity/neck pocket a go and see how they handle the Colortone and see what happens before I get too carried away. I'll keep coloured lacquer in mind as an option if the Colortone doesn't look to work.

  9. #7
    Member lunaticds's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andyxlh View Post
    If you want to try something else, I have been using dmarzio model p for decades. Amazing for rock, great through the Ampeg, really growl. Only $130 or so. I was nervous with the tonerider, but will see how they go, they sound good so far.
    I've never really paid any attention to DM's before. Might be time to add them to my list for consideration. I might wait on that until I see whether or not I can actually get a finish on this body :P

  10. #8
    Mentor Andyxlh's Avatar
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    Ha! Dmarzio are used by lots of rock bands back in the 80s, they have a high ish output. I really like them, Seymour Duncan make something very similar, canít remember the name though

  11. #9
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    Not just back in the 80s. Ibanez use DM on their high-end models. DM make a similar wide range of pickups to SD. Iíve used a couple of their guitar pickups recently and theyíve been very good. Probably better marketing on SDs part that has made them more well known, along with less stores stocking DM (which ties in with marketing and so popularity).

  12. #10
    Mentor Andyxlh's Avatar
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    Nice to hear you like them Simon. Iím looking forward to how the tonerider stacks up against the DM, my ear is really trained to hear that sound nowadays. Probably why I struggle with the tone on my stingray, although it is amazing to play

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