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Thread: Build number 5

  1. #1
    Member Groovyman32's Avatar
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    Build number 5

    Hi all,

    It's been a while. I finished build number four sometime ago. It's a Jackson Dinky based super strat:
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    The kit was from guitar kit fabric in the UK. The kit itself was not the best. The trem cavity was not quite straight so it needed some tweaking.

    I swapped out the kit trem for a Floyd Special which is okay as long as you keep it well setup. The nut is also upgraded but still needs some work. The pickups are Iron Gear rolling mills and a smoke stack in the middle.

    The top is finished with Rustins Plastic Coating gloss whilst the back and sides I left natural with some graphite dust mixed into the grain filler and a few coats of shellac sealer followed by a bees wax.

    Over all I'm really happy with it.

    I stopped building at this point as I'd run out of room in the house for guitars.

    But then I saw this this FretWire kit on FB and I was weak:
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    More details to follow...
    Last edited by Groovyman32; 07-10-2022 at 06:13 PM.

  2. #2
    Member Groovyman32's Avatar
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    ... so I was lying in bed one morning flicking through Facebook when this fretwire LP came up on the market place for a good price. I was itching to start a new project so I made the chap an offer. A few days later it arrives.

    It's has a two piece mahogony back and top with a maple veneer. The neck is m'hog too.

    Of course, I'm not going to use much of the kit hardware. I've got a TonePros bridge and tail piece and Gotoh locking tuners for a start. I'm pretty sure the pickups are going to be Monty's PAFs - I really like the set have from them in my Strat build.

    For finish I'll do some kind of stain on the top and then try to spray some rattle can nitro - this will be my first attempt at that.

    In a previous build I attempted an inlay which didn't work out so I abandoned it. But I've had a go at it again. I've got some walnut veneer that I want to overlay onto the headstock and here's my progress so far:

    Step one - bear inlayed and some black stain applied.
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    At this point the filling was a bit sketchy - especially around the rear feet. I was using walnut dust and super glue as the filler. Charcoal dust instead with the glue was a much better choice.

    Here it is rough cut to size and with the truss rod access cut out:
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    And here it is with kit TR cover and nut blank in place:
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    The next step is thin the headstock down so it’s square and thin the veneer too so it’s not so chunky. It’s currently about 2mm thick.

    My plan is to use dowels to make sure it doesn't slip whilst gluing – but I’m not sure how to stop the dowels from sticking – wax perhaps? I’m going to make some cauls that will allow the dowels to pass through so I get even clamping pressure – any ideas?

    Good to be back in the game!
    Last edited by Groovyman32; 07-10-2022 at 05:35 PM.

  3. #3
    Overlord of Music McCreed's Avatar
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    Great to see you've been keeping a hand in. The Dinky looks great.
    Nice colour coordination with the strap too!

    Inlay looks good also. I immediately recognised it as a bear, so that a good start!
    Look forward to seeing more progress.
    Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...

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  5. #4
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    I normally use cling film as my non-stick medium when using a caul for clamping, but I don't think that would work that well with dowel as you'd need a small gap in order to fit it, which will make the positioning less accurate.

    I would have done the inlay on the veneer but not drilled the tuner holes. Trimmed the veneer down to be a bit larger than the headstock, stuck it on and then trimmed and drilled the holes.

    What about drilling holes in a caul using the veneer as a template, gluing and clamping the veneer on and then immediately removing the dowels? Once the veneer is in place and clamped, you shouldn't need the dowels any more, so they don't need to remain whilst the glue dries.

    Or else use the fretboard pinning method and knock a three of four thin panel pins into the headstock by a few mm, then cut off the pins about 1mm above the headstock face with angled (not flat edge) side-cutters so that they leave a pointed end. Use the dowel to locate the veneer onto the headstock face and tap it down so the veneer is then located by the pins. Then you can glue the headstock and clamp it with a flat caul without risk of the veneer slipping.

    Very nice bear inlay!


    Then stuck the

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  7. #5
    Member Groovyman32's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simon Barden View Post
    I would have done the inlay on the veneer but not drilled the tuner holes. Trimmed the veneer down to be a bit larger than the headstock, stuck it on and then trimmed and drilled the holes.
    Yes! this is what I should have done. I drilled the holes first as I thought it would give a good feel when positioning the bear. But I guess it doesn't matter as long as it roughly in the ballpark.

    Quote Originally Posted by Simon Barden View Post
    What about drilling holes in a caul using the veneer as a template, gluing and clamping the veneer on and then immediately removing the dowels? Once the veneer is in place and clamped, you shouldn't need the dowels any more, so they don't need to remain whilst the glue dries.

    Or else use the fretboard pinning method and knock a three of four thin panel pins into the headstock by a few mm, then cut off the pins about 1mm above the headstock face with angled (not flat edge) side-cutters so that they leave a pointed end. Use the dowel to locate the veneer onto the headstock face and tap it down so the veneer is then located by the pins. Then you can glue the headstock and clamp it with a flat caul without risk of the veneer slipping.
    Putting holes in the caul was what I had in mind - but of course - just push the dowels out when it's clamped - duh... I've seen people use salt to help avoid slippage which I guess would work a bit like the pins. But I do like the pin idea too.

    Quote Originally Posted by Simon Barden View Post
    Very nice bear inlay!
    Thanks. It's inspired by father-in-law. He loved a project and we spent many hours working in my shed on lots of harebrained guitar based electronics ideas - like the valve amp that took us over 10 years - massively over featured and engineered. He was the brains of the operation helping me to bring to life my ideas without frying myself on mains electricity.

    One of his own projects was to make a big 3D sculpture out of large sheets of plywood. For him it was as much about the engineering as it was the art. He built a bear, called him Eric (he was a big Clapton fan) and he stands proudly in their garden. Here's the prototype that he made:
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    I don't have a picture of the real thing - but imagine that but about 2m in length

    Anyway, we lost my father-in-law to cancer over the summer and so I thought this would be a fitting way to pay homage to him, all the things I've learnt from him and to remember all the happy times times we spent together.

  8. #6
    Overlord of Music McCreed's Avatar
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    Thanks for sharing the bear story. That's a good one, and I reckon a fitting tribute. Good on ya!
    Making the world a better place; one guitar at a time...

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  10. #7
    GAStronomist Simon Barden's Avatar
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    Sorry to hear about your Father-In-Law.

    The bear story is cool.

    Wood glue can be quite grabby even early on, so if the worst comes to the worst, and you can't pop one out, you can always chisel the dowel flat at each end and then drill it out.

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  12. #8
    Overlord of Music WeirdBits's Avatar
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    Baking paper around the dowels.
    Scott.

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  14. #9
    Member Groovyman32's Avatar
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    Build number 5

    Good progress made today. I sanded back the of the veneer to make it an even 2mm. Then thinned down the face of the head stock with a chisel. This was the first time using a chisel like this. I got some cheap whetstones from Amazon which worked pretty well on my old Stanley chisels. I managed to make some pretty convincing shavings. I think the right tool for the job would be a small plane but chisels is all I have.

    In the end I left the veneer thicker than I was planning as I thought the walnut edge will look good as a contrast when finish is on it.. Or I could try staining the edge?

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    I'm running out of reasons not to glue it on now...
    Last edited by Groovyman32; 09-10-2022 at 04:38 AM.

  15. #10
    Member Groovyman32's Avatar
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    Hi everyone,

    Progress has been steady - I've glued in the neck and filled the joint, stained the back/sides and done the top. The top started being quite bright but I think I'm in danger of over working it now - so I've decided to leave it as is. This is the final result:

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    My plan is to spray it with nitro sanding sealer. I don't have a spray booth #obvs and all of the internet says don't spray in autumn / winter.

    Is there anyway I can do this? Or am I going to have shelve this until the spring?

    Ideas I've got include heating up the shed and spraying with the door open, me in the shed spraying towards the door with some electric fans behind me - then close the door to let it gas off. I could also build an extractor fan into the shed wall but that seems a bit drastic.

    Also does anyone know what mask rating I need for spraying nitro?
    Thanks!

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